It’s already expensive, and the scene is fractured between the “sport” surfers and the “soul” surfers (I’m in the latter category), creating a fairly high barrier to entry to the uninitiated. Mainstream popularity could be the best–or worst–thing to happen to surfing. When sports are injected with a lot of money and interest, they tend to spoil. Just look at NASCAR.
Surfing has been added to the list of sports competed in at the Olympic Games. Despite the PR puff, the reality for surfers is there’s nothing to celebrate.
Source: Why adding surfing to the Olympic Games is bad news for surfers
Excerpts from Jim Heimann’s Surfing, a new book from Taschen that chronicles “the sport of kings” in vivid detail.
Source: The Fascinating Evolution of the Surfboard | WIRED
Last week, professional surfer Tom Dosland fell 40-feet down the front of a wave at Jaws, Maui’s legendary surfing break. See the intensity of it all in the video above.
Source: Watch the most intense surfing wipeout you’ve ever seen / Boing Boing
Watch as German surfer, Sebastian Steudtner, wows crowds in Portugal while riding a massive wave in the first big swell of the year.
Source: Surfer stuns crowd on huge wave in Portugal
The fact that surfing is as much science as it is Zen is why I love it.
Mark Sponsler is a renowned surf forecaster and founder of Stormsurf.com, and his number crunching helps decide when big-wave competitions happen.
Source: The Surf Forecaster Who Says When It’s Safe to Shred Mavericks | WIRED
I often wax poetically about the romance of surfing, of waiting in relative solitude among the waves for a good swell. It’s waiting patiently for the next positive rush instead of–in this case–waiting anxiously for the next explosion. It’s a calming effect, like meditation or breathing exercises. Like flying, surfing changed my life, even though I don’t get much chance to practice it anymore. The experience is transcendental, and I’m sure these combat-fatigued vets will find some inner peace on the blue.
There’s no quick fix for post-traumatic stress disorder, but research has shown that surfing’s physicality and flow can give victims some relief and a way forward. The author hit the water with his close friend Brian, a former Navy SEAL whose service in Afghanistan beat up his body, tortured his mind, and pushed him into a zone where violence—against himself or others—seemed inevitable.
Source: Can Surfing Reprogram the Veteran’s Brain? | Outside Online
If you’re at a beach with some good curls, these tips will have you riding in no time.
Source: How to Catch a Wave | WIRED