Tag Archives: Raspberry Pi

element14 Presents — Project Mooninite: Raspberry Pi Asteroid Tracker

Whether you call them “blinkies”, “throwies”, “sparklers”, or anything else, LED art is an interesting nexus of street art and hacker culture.

Connect with Matt on element14 and find the B.O.M at: http://bit.ly/2C2dhEt

Events such as DEFCON even have exhibitions for the most creative blinky designs while maker storefronts sell them in every conceivable shape. In this video, Matt collaborates with his friends at the National Upcycled Computing Collective to build a solar-powered “smart” blinky that not only looks cool at night, but contributes its computing power to a worldwide network that’s looking for disease cures, extraterrestrial intelligence, rogue asteroids, and more!

How To Build A Raspberry Pi LED Blinky For BOINC [Trailer]

The Berkley Open Infrastructure for Network Computing (BOINC) allows citizens to donate their spare computing power to help scientific research. In this element14 Presents project inspired by the 2007 Boston Mooninite Panic, we’re going to build a basic electronics hacker project: an LED blinky that not only makes cool designs, but also contributes computing power to BOINC by means of a solar-powered Raspberry Pi!

Watch the full video at element14 Presents: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCRSz…

Music: “Starlight (beta)” by Anders Enger Jensen, used with permission.

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Building a Raspberry Pi Portable Gaming Device (Hack Like Heck: Matthew Eargle – TurtlePi)

If you’re going to build a retro gaming device, why not do it with a little style? The TurtlePi starts with a 1989 Konami Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles LCD handheld with a bad board and replaces the internals using a Raspberry Pi Zero W and Adafruit PiTFT screen to build a TMNT-themed handheld like no other! This video is the grand-prize-winning entry in Element14’s “Hack Like Heck” competition. Special thanks to Element14 and all of my friends, family, and subscribers who supported me in the contest!

Music by Anders Enger Jensen, available at http://eox.no

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00:00:04,549 –> 00:00:09,590
why don’t we have people send in short
audition videos and put them on the Element

00:00:09,590 –> 00:00:14,690
14 community saying hey here’s Who I am
here’s what I do and here’s how I would

00:00:14,690 –> 00:00:22,359
approach a raspberry pi affordable okay
and the ten best videos that we oh yeah

00:00:22,359 –> 00:00:26,900
what are you doing here we were battling
the shredder and old metal face

00:00:26,900 –> 00:00:33,019
destroyed my favorite video game ever I
need your help to fix it well why don’t

00:00:33,019 –> 00:00:37,370
you get it Donatello to do it nah he’s
busy working on some project for some

00:00:37,370 –> 00:00:42,140
Ben Heck guy whoever that is you think
you can look at it oh yeah this is a

00:00:42,140 –> 00:00:51,320
crush a I’ll see what I can do so
apparently Raphael is entrusted me with

00:00:51,320 –> 00:00:56,629
this vintage 1989 Teenage Mutant Ninja
Turtles handheld game and well it’s kind

00:00:56,629 –> 00:01:01,119
of a one-trick pony though it’s a
rudimentary graphics rudimentary sound

00:01:01,119 –> 00:01:08,330
rudimentary gameplay but what if we can
take these design cues and upgrade the

00:01:08,330 –> 00:01:14,149
internals we’ll say a Raspberry Pi new
screen etc and we can build something

00:01:14,149 –> 00:01:19,939
that celebrates not only a beloved
franchise but retro gaming in general

00:01:19,939 –> 00:01:26,299
much the way that the SNES classic or
the NES classic does so here’s my idea

00:01:26,299 –> 00:01:37,670
we take said TMNT game which is very
poor part and should be able to fit a

00:01:37,670 –> 00:01:47,030
new TFT screen right here we’ll use the
original buttons if I can get some

00:01:47,030 –> 00:01:52,939
replacements we use the original buttons
here we use these function buttons we

00:01:52,939 –> 00:01:59,659
put a power switch here for the on/off
button and then we’ll just use some tax

00:01:59,659 –> 00:02:05,060
switches up underneath we’ll build a new
control set so the screen and a

00:02:05,060 –> 00:02:11,840
Raspberry Pi should just fit right here
may have to take much of this out just

00:02:11,840 –> 00:02:17,600
to fit everything in but we should be
able to have plenty of room here since

00:02:17,600 –> 00:02:21,439
we’re not
gonna use double A’s I should be able to

00:02:21,439 –> 00:02:28,280
get a lipo big lipo battery stick it
right in here and use this room for some

00:02:28,280 –> 00:02:37,579
extra eternals so this looks like it’s a
very viable project so let me order some

00:02:37,579 –> 00:02:43,340
parts and we will start fitting
everything together and see where it

00:02:43,340 –> 00:02:52,280
goes so I think my biggest concern here
is the way that the pie and the screen

00:02:52,280 –> 00:02:59,150
are gonna fit together inside the case
now of course it looks like they’re

00:02:59,150 –> 00:03:03,290
gonna fit so it should be okay but we’ll
know for certain once we get rid of all

00:03:03,290 –> 00:03:07,069
this extra plastic here so I’m gonna
mark off all these areas that we’re

00:03:07,069 –> 00:03:14,870
gonna cut and then once I have all that
now it’s time to dremel yes I actually I

00:03:14,870 –> 00:03:20,209
was afraid of this so the buttons don’t
fit right the screen and they don’t even

00:03:20,209 –> 00:03:24,370
line up right so we’re gonna have to
take those

00:03:36,780 –> 00:03:44,350
so here are the buttons that we removed
and of course you got a uh can actually

00:03:44,350 –> 00:03:47,320
see in here that they just they just
don’t line up right so we’re gonna

00:03:47,320 –> 00:03:56,140
actually create a new pad a new
controller to go in here now before we

00:03:56,140 –> 00:03:59,020
get building this thing we should
probably at least set up the operating

00:03:59,020 –> 00:04:02,830
system on the Raspberry Pi and since
this is a PI based gaming system we’re

00:04:02,830 –> 00:04:07,360
gonna use the tried-and-true retro PI so
we’re just gonna jump over to the retro

00:04:07,360 –> 00:04:11,620
pie website and grab the image once
that’s finished downloading use an app

00:04:11,620 –> 00:04:16,810
like etcher to flash it onto a bootable
SD drive disco now I’ve got to

00:04:16,810 –> 00:04:21,520
reconfigure this workstation with the
HDMI monitor the OTG cable and the power

00:04:21,520 –> 00:04:27,700
supply in order to set up the Raspberry
Pi for the first boot okay we’ve got a

00:04:27,700 –> 00:04:31,780
splash screen this is a good sign so
from here let’s go into the

00:04:31,780 –> 00:04:36,330
configuration menu and set up the Wi-Fi

00:04:36,630 –> 00:04:42,730
now we need to enable SSH so we’re gonna
go into raspy config then to interface

00:04:42,730 –> 00:04:49,150
options SSH and 1/8 now back in the main
retro PI interface I’ll go ahead and

00:04:49,150 –> 00:04:53,560
shut down the pi so that I can clear all
the stuff off my workstation now back on

00:04:53,560 –> 00:04:58,120
the Mac I’ll just fire around terminal
and ssh into hi now I haven’t changed

00:04:58,120 –> 00:05:01,450
the knee of the credentials yet but you
absolutely should do that as soon as

00:05:01,450 –> 00:05:08,320
possible now I’m gonna be using a two
fruits 2.2 inch pie TFT hat as the

00:05:08,320 –> 00:05:12,730
primary display so I need to enable
support using the script that they were

00:05:12,730 –> 00:05:20,320
so good to provide I’ll use option 6 for
the manual configuration and give it a

00:05:20,320 –> 00:05:25,990
few minutes for everything to install I
also need to set up a two fruits from

00:05:25,990 –> 00:05:29,890
retro game scripts so I can quickly
assign the GPIO breakout pins from the

00:05:29,890 –> 00:05:35,330
screen module
we’ll use the hi girls zero settings for

00:05:35,330 –> 00:05:42,910
simplicity okay the initial setup is
complete and it’s time to do

00:05:44,620 –> 00:05:49,520
okay so I’ve picked up some bakelite
perfboard so I could build a custom

00:05:49,520 –> 00:05:54,620
controller without having to roll my own
PCB besides it’s quicker and easier if I

00:05:54,620 –> 00:06:00,140
just hand wire everything and I’m gonna
be better able to make adjustments and

00:06:00,140 –> 00:06:06,590
changes as necessary if so to start I
just need to lay out my buttons and make

00:06:06,590 –> 00:06:10,130
sure I have the correct spacing by using
the front panel of the game then I’ll

00:06:10,130 –> 00:06:14,560
press fit my pack switches in the board
and double check the spacing as I go

00:06:14,560 –> 00:06:31,600
once everything is lined up right it’s
time to solder

00:06:31,600 –> 00:06:35,150
now that all the buttons are soldered
place I’ll go ahead and trim off the

00:06:35,150 –> 00:06:39,980
excess bakelite so that the whole board
fits in the case nicely of course this

00:06:39,980 –> 00:06:44,090
is why I’m using bakelite instead of
fiberglass because well it’s I can cut

00:06:44,090 –> 00:06:47,330
it with scissors I don’t have to get out
the dremel and all the safety equipment

00:06:47,330 –> 00:06:51,650
so you know just to make a simple trail
I’m also gonna need to cut out a notch

00:06:51,650 –> 00:06:56,690
here to fit this big beefy power button
that I’m gonna install separately now

00:06:56,690 –> 00:07:00,490
let’s start working on this screen

00:07:03,590 –> 00:07:09,020
so the PI TFT hat actually comes with a
separate GPIO breakout right here below

00:07:09,020 –> 00:07:13,940
the 40 thin connector so that you can
easily attach control wires the cell I’m

00:07:13,940 –> 00:07:17,389
going to connect the buttons and I’m
just gonna use a two fruits default

00:07:17,389 –> 00:07:25,610
layout for their retro game script to
wire everything for now okay just a

00:07:25,610 –> 00:07:29,960
quick orientation check let’s get these
wires soldered to their Horace ponding

00:07:29,960 –> 00:07:36,839

00:07:39,690 –> 00:07:47,670
okay now moment of truth it’s time to
solder the pie to the screen module with

00:07:47,670 –> 00:07:51,470
all the wires sandwiched in between

00:07:57,530 –> 00:08:02,370
now the screen module and the PI are
married I need to ground all these

00:08:02,370 –> 00:08:07,560
buttons to a common line so I’ll just
run some ground lines create a couple of

00:08:07,560 –> 00:08:13,590
buses and connect all of that to one of
the ground pants on the GPIO now I need

00:08:13,590 –> 00:08:18,480
a couple of shoulder buttons and so I’m
going to use these little candy colored

00:08:18,480 –> 00:08:24,330
text witches because they’re going to
fit right into the top of these little

00:08:24,330 –> 00:08:29,820
shoulders here on the bottom of the case
appropriately enough so I’m going to

00:08:29,820 –> 00:08:34,830
need to measure the button cap okay
looks be about 11 millimeters give or

00:08:34,830 –> 00:08:45,999
take so now my stepper bit and you get
to chewing through this plastic

00:08:56,220 –> 00:09:07,259
looking good so now we need some onboard
audio okay let’s take our USB audio

00:09:07,259 –> 00:09:12,120
adapter and and tear off these three and
a half millimeter Jaxx’s we’re not going

00:09:12,120 –> 00:09:18,360
to need them instead we’ll just solder
the leads to our speaker directly to the

00:09:18,360 –> 00:09:22,920
pads where the headphone jack was it
doesn’t really matter which channel we

00:09:22,920 –> 00:09:27,209
use because we’re only going to output
mono sound all these old games did just

00:09:27,209 –> 00:09:31,019
fine with mono sound anyway I mean it’s
not like a lot of TVs back in the day

00:09:31,019 –> 00:09:36,629
had stereo capabilities anyway
kind of reminds me of the Etta reminds

00:09:36,629 –> 00:09:41,730
me of the old game boys you know
dot-matrix with stereo sound but only

00:09:41,730 –> 00:09:55,079
one speaker whatever now we should at
least make sure it works now comes the

00:09:55,079 –> 00:09:57,660

00:09:57,660 –> 00:10:06,810
I need to desolder these wires leading
to the USB plug because well this just

00:10:06,810 –> 00:10:11,280
isn’t gonna work
oh yeah and you might want to take note

00:10:11,280 –> 00:10:16,590
of where each wire is connected to
logistics anyway with the USB

00:10:16,590 –> 00:10:22,530
disconnected I’ll just cut a micro USB
cable that I have lying around and leave

00:10:22,530 –> 00:10:28,140
a micro plug and just a few inches worth
of cable strip it down and solder the

00:10:28,140 –> 00:10:33,390
individual wires onto the appropriate
pads add a little dab of hot glue to

00:10:33,390 –> 00:10:39,840
reinforce the connections and then we’ve
got as a micro USB audio adapter that

00:10:39,840 –> 00:10:49,860
should fit just like so now the last
component I have to build before we put

00:10:49,860 –> 00:10:53,280
this whole thing together is the power
supply now I’m going to use a two

00:10:53,280 –> 00:10:57,810
thousand milliamp power lipo battery to
power the thing with but I’m gonna need

00:10:57,810 –> 00:11:02,910
a way to charge it and to distribute
that power so for that I’m gonna use

00:11:02,910 –> 00:11:09,720
this a power boost 1000 from Adafruit
it’s actually pretty simple to wire the

00:11:09,720 –> 00:11:16,230
battery plugs into this little jack
right here and we just have to run a

00:11:16,230 –> 00:11:22,320
couple of wires from these terminals one
goes to a 5 volt pin and the other goes

00:11:22,320 –> 00:11:26,490
to the ground pin on the PI I’m also
gonna wire this little clicky button

00:11:26,490 –> 00:11:32,820
switch that I have that I’ll use to talk
with power now let’s get these things

00:11:32,820 –> 00:11:37,310
soldered up and that’ll be time to put
this bad boy together

00:11:39,279 –> 00:11:45,379
so I’ve run into a little bit of a snag
on assembling the speaker that I’m using

00:11:45,379 –> 00:11:50,029
is just too big to fit inside the shell
so I’m gonna have to find a smaller

00:11:50,029 –> 00:11:55,360
speaker driver to use now fortunately
the fine folks over at Ben Heck show

00:11:55,360 –> 00:12:00,500
happened to send me another speaker as
part of the build materials for Ben’s

00:12:00,500 –> 00:12:08,149
original bill okay let’s get this bad
boy put together we’re gonna start with

00:12:08,149 –> 00:12:14,449
the power boost unit wire that up to the
five volt in and the ground pin on the

00:12:14,449 –> 00:12:21,500
Raspberry Pi then we want a route ours
power switch into its appropriate

00:12:21,500 –> 00:12:29,209
position all right looking good now we
need to connect the shoulder buttons to

00:12:29,209 –> 00:12:34,189
the main controls we’re gonna start by
running ground lines from the ground bus

00:12:34,189 –> 00:12:38,029
on the controller out to the shoulder
buttons which I’ve attached to these

00:12:38,029 –> 00:12:42,889
small little pieces of perfboard that
I’ve glued into place then we’re going

00:12:42,889 –> 00:12:46,689
to connect our signal wires that we
soldered on to the screen module earlier

00:12:46,689 –> 00:12:52,100
all right everything’s fitting great now
we just need to add a little hot glue to

00:12:52,100 –> 00:12:57,769
hold everything in place and to insulate
our wires okay the last thing we have to

00:12:57,769 –> 00:13:02,110
do is Mount our USB audio so we got to
run the cable right around through here

00:13:02,110 –> 00:13:07,699
plug it in and cut a little piece of
mounting square we’re gonna tack the

00:13:07,699 –> 00:13:15,800
speaker right down on to the battery and
I think we’re actually finished let’s

00:13:15,800 –> 00:13:23,430
give it a shot
it works I’ve works it works okay one

00:13:23,430 –> 00:13:40,320
more thing I’ve got to do and always got
to sign our work perfect now I just got

00:13:40,320 –> 00:13:44,340
to get this back over to Raphael and
we’re good to go okay so the games

00:13:44,340 –> 00:13:47,940
intact but I’ve made a few modifications
that I think you’re gonna enjoy let’s

00:13:47,940 –> 00:13:57,830
check it out wow this is radical this is
way better than the game I used to play

How To Install Essential Upgrades To Your ROBO 3D Printer

Make your 3D printer into a wireless print server by adding a Raspberry Pi and capture timelapse videos with an on-board webcam. What do you want to see me print next?

How To Install OctoPi http://airbornesurfer.com/2017/06/setup-octopi-raspberry-pi-octoprint/

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Outlet Saver http://amzn.to/2rqigVK
Right-Angle USB Cable http://amzn.to/2sDdIQl
USB Power Adapter http://amzn.to/2szR7TM
Webcam http://amzn.to/2sDaYCo

Cable Loop/Holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:934927
Raspberry Pi Mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205961
Camera Mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2389663
Spool Holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:255229

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. At least one new video per month! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!


00:00:00,030 –> 00:00:04,799
hey folks Atari here I’ve been playing

00:00:02,790 –> 00:00:05,580
around with this Robo 3d printer for a

00:00:04,799 –> 00:00:07,379
while now

00:00:05,580 –> 00:00:10,110
and I think I’ve got the hang of it

00:00:07,379 –> 00:00:12,660
finally the thing about 3d printing is

00:00:10,110 –> 00:00:14,670
it’s very much a hacker minded hobby

00:00:12,660 –> 00:00:17,850
there’s a lot of trial and error

00:00:14,670 –> 00:00:20,369
involved in the process and most

00:00:17,850 –> 00:00:22,710
consumer grade printers do lack a lot of

00:00:20,369 –> 00:00:24,960
the out-of-the-box features got some of

00:00:22,710 –> 00:00:27,539
the higher-end printers include which

00:00:24,960 –> 00:00:30,300
leads people like me to go ahead and

00:00:27,539 –> 00:00:32,750
build their own upgrades what I’ve done

00:00:30,300 –> 00:00:36,090
here is I’ve installed a Raspberry Pi

00:00:32,750 –> 00:00:39,420
with the octoprint software to make a

00:00:36,090 –> 00:00:42,719
self-contained Wi-Fi printer and then I

00:00:39,420 –> 00:00:45,809
installed a webcam to capture time-lapse

00:00:42,719 –> 00:00:48,510
videos of the print process as well as

00:00:45,809 –> 00:00:51,449
some LED lighting for better video

00:00:48,510 –> 00:00:53,390
capturing and then I’ve you know kind of

00:00:51,449 –> 00:00:57,390
rejiggered the cabling and the filament

00:00:53,390 –> 00:00:58,559
feeds so that they’re going to move a

00:00:57,390 –> 00:01:01,949
little bit better and they don’t be

00:00:58,559 –> 00:01:03,629
caught up in may in the works inside it

00:01:01,949 –> 00:01:08,280
just makes for a whole lot better

00:01:03,629 –> 00:01:11,310
experience so this video is going to

00:01:08,280 –> 00:01:16,350
walk you through the process that I use

00:01:11,310 –> 00:01:19,320
to install these physical upgrades but I

00:01:16,350 –> 00:01:21,659
will have a link in the doobly-doo and

00:01:19,320 –> 00:01:26,150
probably up here in the corner a link to

00:01:21,659 –> 00:01:30,600
a full how-to article about about

00:01:26,150 –> 00:01:33,479
installing and setting up octoprint on

00:01:30,600 –> 00:01:35,100
the Raspberry Pi or octopi as its called

00:01:33,479 –> 00:01:38,220
I will put a link to that I’ll have a

00:01:35,100 –> 00:01:40,680
full write-up on airborne surfer comm so

00:01:38,220 –> 00:01:42,720
you can follow that guide there but

00:01:40,680 –> 00:01:46,380
again this is going to walk through the

00:01:42,720 –> 00:01:48,509
physical installation and with that with

00:01:46,380 –> 00:01:50,579
the write-up on the software that should

00:01:48,509 –> 00:01:52,680
get you through a pretty much down the

00:01:50,579 –> 00:01:54,840
gist of it the first thing I’m going to

00:01:52,680 –> 00:01:56,939
fix is the zip tie loop for the cable

00:01:54,840 –> 00:01:58,770
loom having a zip tie here has been

00:01:56,939 –> 00:02:01,950
holding the Loom a little too rigidly

00:01:58,770 –> 00:02:03,930
and has led to a few failed prints I’ve

00:02:01,950 –> 00:02:06,210
already cut the zip ties since removing

00:02:03,930 –> 00:02:08,640
the hood and now I need to replace the

00:02:06,210 –> 00:02:10,500
mounting point for the zip tire I found

00:02:08,640 –> 00:02:13,140
a suitable two piece cable loop on

00:02:10,500 –> 00:02:15,480
Thingiverse that holds the Loom in

00:02:13,140 –> 00:02:18,240
face while being loose enough to allow

00:02:15,480 –> 00:02:20,000
some play in the tension remove the two

00:02:18,240 –> 00:02:23,459
screws holding the loop mount in place

00:02:20,000 –> 00:02:25,740
then replace it with the base of the

00:02:23,459 –> 00:02:29,580
two-piece print hang on to the second

00:02:25,740 –> 00:02:31,709
piece for later next thing to do is

00:02:29,580 –> 00:02:34,500
install some lighting I picked up the

00:02:31,709 –> 00:02:37,680
self-adhesive USB powered LED strip from

00:02:34,500 –> 00:02:40,530
Amazon and ran it along the interior of

00:02:37,680 –> 00:02:42,630
the hood be sure to start with the USB

00:02:40,530 –> 00:02:44,790
plug on the slide with the cable well

00:02:42,630 –> 00:02:48,239
this is the same side that the loop

00:02:44,790 –> 00:02:51,120
mount is installed now before we put the

00:02:48,239 –> 00:02:53,459
hood back on go ahead and unplug the USB

00:02:51,120 –> 00:02:56,820
cable and the power cable from the

00:02:53,459 –> 00:02:59,130
printer place the hood back onto the

00:02:56,820 –> 00:03:02,130
base of the printer with the cable loop

00:02:59,130 –> 00:03:04,350
on the same side as the well make sure

00:03:02,130 –> 00:03:07,170
all the wiring is tucked inside the hood

00:03:04,350 –> 00:03:10,170
before pressing down to properly align

00:03:07,170 –> 00:03:14,550
the screw holes then screw the hood

00:03:10,170 –> 00:03:17,489
securely in place now gently lift the

00:03:14,550 –> 00:03:19,440
printer and set it on its side make sure

00:03:17,489 –> 00:03:21,810
to hold on to the print cartridge and

00:03:19,440 –> 00:03:24,870
abed as they’re likely to slide around

00:03:21,810 –> 00:03:26,790
to install the Raspberry Pi we’re going

00:03:24,870 –> 00:03:29,190
to need to siphon some electricity from

00:03:26,790 –> 00:03:32,340
the printers power supply specifically

00:03:29,190 –> 00:03:40,590
from the AC input coming from the switch

00:03:32,340 –> 00:03:43,590
on the back of the unit the power supply

00:03:40,590 –> 00:03:44,610
on a robo 3d printer is a tough zombie

00:03:43,590 –> 00:03:46,769
to remove

00:03:44,610 –> 00:03:50,040
there aren’t any screws or anything it’s

00:03:46,769 –> 00:03:53,430
just held in the friction very tightly

00:03:50,040 –> 00:03:56,190
as you can see taking quite a bit of

00:03:53,430 –> 00:03:58,950
effort to remove I found that shifting

00:03:56,190 –> 00:04:01,380
it down at an angle back and forth will

00:03:58,950 –> 00:04:04,290
garner the quickest results but your

00:04:01,380 –> 00:04:06,810
mileage may vary so here are the

00:04:04,290 –> 00:04:09,049
terminals these four go into the Arduino

00:04:06,810 –> 00:04:13,790
board that controls the printer and

00:04:09,049 –> 00:04:19,289
these three are for the AC what dish

00:04:13,790 –> 00:04:20,489
blue brown green and yellow OnLive just

00:04:19,289 –> 00:04:24,639
get get somebody killed

00:04:20,489 –> 00:04:27,039
you see standards exist for a reason

00:04:24,639 –> 00:04:29,889
well they exist for many reasons but one

00:04:27,039 –> 00:04:33,099
of them is safety international standard

00:04:29,889 –> 00:04:35,289
wiring colors are such so that one does

00:04:33,099 –> 00:04:37,710
not accidentally connect the wrong

00:04:35,289 –> 00:04:41,439
conduct to do the wrong terminal or

00:04:37,710 –> 00:04:47,740
worse touch the wrong live conductor

00:04:41,439 –> 00:04:50,199
this is wrong this is it’s good right

00:04:47,740 –> 00:04:57,370
I mean bed at least the goddamn

00:04:50,199 –> 00:04:59,770
terminals are clearly marked anyway

00:04:57,370 –> 00:05:02,919
we’re going to need to tap into these

00:04:59,770 –> 00:05:05,139
leads to direct power to a standard 110

00:05:02,919 –> 00:05:07,180
volt outlet so that we can use an

00:05:05,139 –> 00:05:08,379
off-the-shelf power converter to power

00:05:07,180 –> 00:05:10,870
the Raspberry Pi

00:05:08,379 –> 00:05:14,169
we’ll start by loosening the terminal

00:05:10,870 –> 00:05:16,629
screws and removing the leads I picked

00:05:14,169 –> 00:05:19,210
up this outlet saver at micro Center for

00:05:16,629 –> 00:05:21,310
a couple of dollars essentially it’s a

00:05:19,210 –> 00:05:23,919
10 inch long grounded extension cord

00:05:21,310 –> 00:05:26,770
take a pair of scissors and cut off the

00:05:23,919 –> 00:05:29,589
plug-in then strip away the outer casing

00:05:26,770 –> 00:05:32,740
leaving just the outlet end and the

00:05:29,589 –> 00:05:35,949
exposed inner wiring at least these

00:05:32,740 –> 00:05:37,779
wires are the proper colors so now we

00:05:35,949 –> 00:05:40,569
just need to strip the end of the

00:05:37,779 –> 00:05:43,330
insulation off of each of the wires so

00:05:40,569 –> 00:05:45,940
we can hook them up to the terminal now

00:05:43,330 –> 00:05:48,969
remember kids ground is green like grass

00:05:45,940 –> 00:05:51,960
on the ground white is neutral because

00:05:48,969 –> 00:05:55,719
it’s the neutral color and black is live

00:05:51,960 –> 00:05:58,060
because black lives matter anyway

00:05:55,719 –> 00:06:01,270
so we reinsert the leads from the switch

00:05:58,060 –> 00:06:04,240
into the proper terminal then insert the

00:06:01,270 –> 00:06:06,810
new leads from the extension cord into

00:06:04,240 –> 00:06:10,599
the appropriate terminals as well and

00:06:06,810 –> 00:06:13,270
tighten the retaining screw then simply

00:06:10,599 –> 00:06:19,629
reposition the power supply back inside

00:06:13,270 –> 00:06:21,789
its retainer with a good shove now we’re

00:06:19,629 –> 00:06:23,770
going to need to run a USB cable to

00:06:21,789 –> 00:06:26,259
connect the Arduino to the Raspberry Pi

00:06:23,770 –> 00:06:28,900
and because the Arduino is mounted so

00:06:26,259 –> 00:06:31,330
close to the edge of the base we’re

00:06:28,900 –> 00:06:33,789
going to use this right angle USB cable

00:06:31,330 –> 00:06:36,279
to make the connection now even with the

00:06:33,789 –> 00:06:38,409
low profile of the right angle cable

00:06:36,279 –> 00:06:41,469
though we’re going to need to

00:06:38,409 –> 00:06:43,569
move the Arduino to plug in the cable so

00:06:41,469 –> 00:06:46,179
just remove these three mounting screws

00:06:43,569 –> 00:06:48,669
from the Arduino and carefully plug in

00:06:46,179 –> 00:06:51,309
the USB cable you can use the existing

00:06:48,669 –> 00:06:54,219
wires to hold the new USB cable in place

00:06:51,309 –> 00:06:57,009
just be careful not to pull any of the

00:06:54,219 –> 00:06:58,959
wires from the Arduino screw the Arduino

00:06:57,009 –> 00:06:59,619
back into place and you’re done with

00:06:58,959 –> 00:07:03,279
step 2

00:06:59,619 –> 00:07:05,769
I found the simple mouth for a Raspberry

00:07:03,279 –> 00:07:08,379
Pi on Thingiverse but I also printed if

00:07:05,769 –> 00:07:10,959
you get the hole size right you can use

00:07:08,379 –> 00:07:12,610
screws to mount the pie in place but I’m

00:07:10,959 –> 00:07:15,339
just going to use glue as it’s a little

00:07:12,610 –> 00:07:17,439
easier than drilling out the hole apply

00:07:15,339 –> 00:07:20,349
the glue to the mount and press the

00:07:17,439 –> 00:07:22,419
Raspberry Pi board into place some glue

00:07:20,349 –> 00:07:24,279
should come through the holes in the pie

00:07:22,419 –> 00:07:26,409
and mushroom over to provide a pretty

00:07:24,279 –> 00:07:29,919
good hole clamp some parts together

00:07:26,409 –> 00:07:32,110
until the glue sets apply glue along the

00:07:29,919 –> 00:07:35,050
perimeter of the mouth and press it into

00:07:32,110 –> 00:07:36,669
place on the bottom of the printer make

00:07:35,050 –> 00:07:39,779
sure to hold it tightly against the base

00:07:36,669 –> 00:07:42,579
of the printer until they do the sex

00:07:39,779 –> 00:07:45,789
finally plug the printer into one of the

00:07:42,579 –> 00:07:48,279
USB ports on the pie plug one end of a

00:07:45,789 –> 00:07:50,529
USB to micro USB cable into the power

00:07:48,279 –> 00:07:52,659
port on the Raspberry Pi and the other

00:07:50,529 –> 00:07:54,999
end into a wall wart power converter I

00:07:52,659 –> 00:07:57,669
think this one up at Tashi station for

00:07:54,999 –> 00:07:59,860
about 5 imperial credits just make sure

00:07:57,669 –> 00:08:02,709
it’s rated for at least 5 volts and 1

00:07:59,860 –> 00:08:04,689
ampere plug your power converter into

00:08:02,709 –> 00:08:07,239
your hacked up power outlet from earlier

00:08:04,689 –> 00:08:10,839
and now your pie is powered on by the

00:08:07,239 –> 00:08:12,759
main switch on the printer again you can

00:08:10,839 –> 00:08:16,719
use the existing wiring to hold your new

00:08:12,759 –> 00:08:18,579
wiring in place I picked up a short USB

00:08:16,719 –> 00:08:20,259
extension cable to connect the lighting

00:08:18,579 –> 00:08:24,369
to the PI as well so I just need to

00:08:20,259 –> 00:08:26,259
connect that the last USB connection is

00:08:24,369 –> 00:08:28,479
made for the webcam which will record

00:08:26,259 –> 00:08:30,699
our time-lapse videos for this i’ll

00:08:28,479 –> 00:08:32,589
thread the USB cable from the front of

00:08:30,699 –> 00:08:34,659
the printer through the cable well to

00:08:32,589 –> 00:08:37,350
the underside of the printer and connect

00:08:34,659 –> 00:08:40,120
it to the Raspberry Pi

00:08:37,350 –> 00:08:41,950
before setting the printer up light go

00:08:40,120 –> 00:08:44,500
ahead and insert the cable loom in place

00:08:41,950 –> 00:08:46,690
inside the loop installed earlier and

00:08:44,500 –> 00:08:51,220
enclose it with the locking piece then

00:08:46,690 –> 00:08:52,900
carefully write the printer this is a

00:08:51,220 –> 00:08:54,670
widget that I designed myself and

00:08:52,900 –> 00:08:56,980
Tinkercad and I’ll put a link to it in

00:08:54,670 –> 00:08:58,900
the doobly-do what it does is it clamps

00:08:56,980 –> 00:09:01,270
onto the edge of the print bed and

00:08:58,900 –> 00:09:03,970
allows you to mount a clamp style webcam

00:09:01,270 –> 00:09:06,130
level with the print bed so you can

00:09:03,970 –> 00:09:09,490
capture time-lapse video that stabilize

00:09:06,130 –> 00:09:11,860
to the y-axis stabilizing one axis is

00:09:09,490 –> 00:09:13,480
nice because otherwise motion gets

00:09:11,860 –> 00:09:17,410
really messy and you can’t really see

00:09:13,480 –> 00:09:19,180
much detail in your printing lastly

00:09:17,410 –> 00:09:20,800
we’re going to turn the printer around

00:09:19,180 –> 00:09:23,410
to the back so I can install the new

00:09:20,800 –> 00:09:25,180
spool holder that I printed this is a

00:09:23,410 –> 00:09:27,940
replacement for the stock holder that

00:09:25,180 –> 00:09:29,590
hangs off the side of the hood this one

00:09:27,940 –> 00:09:31,720
keeps the footprint of the printer a

00:09:29,590 –> 00:09:33,700
little smaller and keeps the filament

00:09:31,720 –> 00:09:35,620
closer to the center axis of the printer

00:09:33,700 –> 00:09:38,470
which helps keep the feed steady

00:09:35,620 –> 00:09:40,060
preventing jams and tangles and it just

00:09:38,470 –> 00:09:43,290
grips onto the side of the hood and

00:09:40,060 –> 00:09:43,290
slides down to lock in place

00:09:43,950 –> 00:09:48,580
now if you’ll install these upgrades as

00:09:46,690 –> 00:09:50,530
soon as possible after setting up your

00:09:48,580 –> 00:09:51,730
logo through the printer you’ll find

00:09:50,530 –> 00:09:55,030
that you’re going to get a much better

00:09:51,730 –> 00:09:57,370
and much more consistent quality in your

00:09:55,030 –> 00:10:01,540
prints and you’ll have a lot fewer

00:09:57,370 –> 00:10:03,250
headaches along the way so anyway thanks

00:10:01,540 –> 00:10:05,320
for watching and if you like this video

00:10:03,250 –> 00:10:07,690
give it a thumbs up and click that

00:10:05,320 –> 00:10:10,060
little subscribe button and be sure to

00:10:07,690 –> 00:10:12,940
share it with your friends and in the

00:10:10,060 –> 00:10:15,220
meantime uh what would you like to see

00:10:12,940 –> 00:10:18,040
me 3d print leave an answer in the

00:10:15,220 –> 00:10:20,280
comments below until next time Tallyho

00:10:18,040 –> 00:10:20,280

00:10:32,590 –> 00:10:38,659


Also on:

How To Install OctoPi (Raspberry Pi OctoPrint)

Having a 3D printer at your disposal is pretty amazing, but it can be a pain when you have to keep the printer tethered to your working computer for hours (or even days) while it runs! I was looking for a simple solution to drive my printer while I used my laptop for other purposes (like going to work during the week) when I came across OctoPrint, an open-source 3D printer web interface for controlling and monitoring the printer from a remote computer. The software essentially creates a running web server for the printer and takes the place of printing suites like MatterControl or Repetier, so it does require running on a machine connected to the printer via USB. If you have an old PC gathering dust, you can easily set it up and have a permanent print station. I, however, don’t have the luxury of a lot of space, so I wanted a more portable option that I could pull out when I needed to use it and easily put away. For this, I chose the Raspberry Pi as it is small enough to easily fit into the printer’s form factor, doesn’t require much electricity to run, and has built-in WiFi compatibility. The OctoPrint software even comes as a complete Linux distro optimized for Raspberry Pi called OctoPi.

Out of the box, OctoPi incorporates the LAMP stack for web hosting, a complete OctoPrint installation (including dependencies) for controlling the 3D printer, the mjpg-streamer package for streaming timelapse videos of the print process, and CuraEngine for slicing. This last item, however, is really moot because of the anemic computing power of the Raspberry Pi. I prefer to slice models on my working computer then transfer over the network to OctoPi for printing.

OctoPi is a pretty simple setup with a lot of really good documentation both at the OctoPrint.org site and their GitHub page. To start, make sure you have Etcher installed and simply download the latest stable version fromΒ http://octopi.octoprint.org/downloadΒ (Be sure to grab the md5 file to verify the download as well!). Unzip the downloaded image and burn it to your SD card using Etcher like you would any other RPi image.

OctoPi network setup
If you don’t know how to manage these settings, you might think twice before diving into 3D Printing. Just a thought.

Open the newly burnt SD card as a removable drive in your computer’s file explorer. In the root folder of the SD card, use a text editor to open octopi-network.txtΒ and edit the file as necessary to match your network configuration.Β Don’t forget to delete the # at the beginning of the appropriate lines or OctoPi will not connect to the network!

Eject the SD card from your computer, pop it into the Raspberry Pi, run a USB cable from the Pi to the printer, and turn on the Pi by plugging it into a power supply. Give the Pi a minute to boot up, and SSH into it from your main computer. The Pi will be located on the network as octopi.local (or an IP address assigned by the router). As usual, the default username is pi and the default password is raspberry.

Change the password using the passwd command, then close your SSH session.

Open a browser on your main computer and point it to octopi.local (or the assigned IP address). The OctoPrint interface will open with the “First-Run Wizard” and prompt you to set up access controls such as username and password. This is specific to OctoPrint and independent of the username and password used to access the Pi via SSH. If you don’t plan on having your printer exposed to the Internet or having anyone else connecting to your network, you may disable access control. I keep it activeΒ just in case, so disable at your own risk!

Reboot OctoPi through the menu at the top right of the screen, and you will be all set to print! If you need more help, check out the README section of the GitHub page or drop a comment below!

Also on:

Project Spoofy final build, boot, and demo

Also on:

Prototype power supply for Raspberry Pi digital photo frame

After a hasty trip to Fry’s in Anaheim last night, I managed to cobble together a prototype power supply that powers both the monitor and the Raspberry Pi from a single source! Now I just need to clean it up and stuff it all inside a nice frame!

Also on:

Project Spoofy (Raspberry Pi digital photo frame) guts in progress

I’ve completely disassembled a flat-screen monitor I picked up at the thrift shop and now I have to figure out the best way to power both the Raspberry Pi and the monitor off the same power supply.

Also on:

How To Set Up Dynamic DNS Using No-IP on Raspberry Pi

Now that we have a working ownCloud installation on our Raspberry Pi, we need a way to be able to remotely access the device from across the internet. Knowing the IP address and forwarding the appropriate ports on the router is only part of the story: most residential ISPs will periodically change the external IP address of their customers for logistical reasons that we won’t get into here (it’s a matter of traditional infrastructure limitations and convenience for the ISP). We’re going to need a way to automatically keep track of the IP address of the device as it potentially changes; as a fortuitous consequence, we’re going to be able to get an easy-to-remember URL in exchange. To do all this, we’re going to set up dynamic DNS using No-IP on Raspberry Pi.

No-IP is a service that allows you to assign a static domain name to a dynamic IP address. Their basic level of service is free, but only affords a limited selection of domains and has to be renewed every 30 days. There are paid offerings available with more features, but for our purposes, we’ll stick with the free product. To get started, sign up for an account at www.noip.com. Once logged into your account, click the “Add a Host” button and fill in the appropriate information: choose a domain, host type [which should be DNS Host (A)], and the external IP address for the network to which the Raspberry Pi is connected. Click the “Add Host” button at the bottom, and then it’s time to set up the client on the RPi.

Using No-IP on Raspberry PI

On the Raspberry Pi, open a terminal session. The first thing we’ll need is a directory to install the Dynamic Update Client. Type mkdir /home/pi/noip and press enter, then navigate to the directory by typing cd /home/pi/noip.

Download the client by typing wget http://www.no-ip.com/client/linux/noip-duc-linux.tar.gz then unzar the archive file by invoking tar vzxf noip-duc-linux.tar.gz and enter the newly written directory with cd noip-2.1.9-1

Now we can install the client using sudo make and then sudo make install. During the installation process, you will be asked for your NoIP credentials as well as your preferred refresh interval (in minutes). Enter them when prompted, then wait for the setup to complete.

Once the installation is complete, run the client by invoking sudo /usr/local/bin/noip2. You can always check on the status of the client by invoking sudo noip2 -S (for status!)

Port Forwarding

Now, all you have to do is set up port forwarding on your router to point port 80 to the Raspberry Pi. Every router’s instructions are going to be slightly different, so check your particular model’s documentation. My Linksys router hides the port forwarding options under the security section and the “Apps and gaming” section. If you make sure that HTTP (port 80) points to the internal IP address for theΒ  RPi, you should be able to navigate to the domain you previously set up on No-IP and reach the default Apache information page. If you get this page, everything is working!

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How To Install ownCloud on Raspberry Pi

OwnCloud is a clever self-hosted alternative to Dropbox and its ilk that provides the same services without the expense of subscriptions or the likelihood that government or marketer’s eyes are prying into your documents. For most consumers, this might be considered more trouble than it’s worth, but rolling your own cloud server under your control is essential to keeping the free and open web–well, free and open. The Raspberry Pi’s $35 price tag makes it especially handsome for a low-cost cloud server using free and open source software. In addition to being an excellent option for cloud storage–especially for those of us with terabytes of material to store–ownCloud is going to provide us with easy online access to photo storage for Project Spoofy. We’ll just point the slideshow application to the ownCloud folders for simplicity later! For now, let’s get started with how to install ownCloud on Raspberry Pi.

How to install ownCloud on Raspberry Pi

First, we need to add the ownCloud repository to the Pi’s sources list. At the command prompt, type sudo nano /etc/apt/sources.list.d/owncloud.list and hit return. This will create a new text file in the Nano text editor. On the first line of the text file, type deb http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/isv:ownCloud:community/Debian_6.0/ /

Type CTRL+x to exit Nano, then Y and return to save.

Now we need to add the repository key so we can access the repository. Download the key by typing wget http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/isv:ownCloud:community/Debian_6.0/Release.key at the command prompt. Once the key is downloaded, add it to the repository by invoking sudo apt-key add - < Release.key

After adding the key, update the repositories by typing sudo apt-get update and return.

Now, we can install ownCloud by typing sudo apt-get install owncloud and return. Press Y for any questions the system asks you, and sit back while ownCloud and MySQL are installed. At some point, MySQL will prompt for aΒ  root password. Choose something interesting and note it for later.

Setting Up ownCloud’s Directory Permissions

Once everything is finished installing, it’s time to set up ownCloud’s directory permissions. First thing, we need to make sure that HTTP has ownership of the ownCloud directory. To do this, make www-data the owner of owncloud by invoking the following command:

chown -R www-data:www-data /var/www/owncloud

Now that HTTP has ownership, we need to adjust the permissions for maximum security. ownCloud has actually provided a script to set all the permissions automatically. Copy the following, paste into a shell script (*.sh file, such as “ocperms.sh” for example) using Nano, and save to a convenient location on the Pi.


printf "Creating possible missing Directories\n"
mkdir -p $ocpath/data
mkdir -p $ocpath/assets

printf "chmod Files and Directories\n"
find ${ocpath}/ -type f -print0 | xargs -0 chmod 0640
find ${ocpath}/ -type d -print0 | xargs -0 chmod 0750

printf "chown Directories\n"
chown -R ${rootuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/
chown -R ${htuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/apps/
chown -R ${htuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/config/
chown -R ${htuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/data/
chown -R ${htuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/themes/
chown -R ${htuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/assets/

chmod +x ${ocpath}/occ

printf "chmod/chown .htaccess\n"
if [ -f ${ocpath}/.htaccess ]
Β then
Β  chmod 0644 ${ocpath}/.htaccess
Β  chown ${rootuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/.htaccess
if [ -f ${ocpath}/data/.htaccess ]
Β then
Β  chmod 0644 ${ocpath}/data/.htaccess
Β  chown ${rootuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/data/.htaccess

Now, make the script executable by typing chmod u+x /ocperms.sh and enter, then execute it by typing ocperms.sh

Set up MySQL

One last step before we run the installation wizard: we must create a MySQL database. When we installed ownCloud, MySQL was installed by default, so we have that going already. Now, just log into the MariaDB client as root by typing mysql -u root -p and return at the command prompt. MySQL will ask for the root password you set earlier then display a new command prompt.

You’ll need to choose a database name, user, and password for ownCloud. In this example, I’ll be using some generics (dbname, dbuser, dbpw), but feel free to make it your own.

Type the following commands at the MySQL prompt (case-sensitive):


GRANT ALL ON dbname.* TO dbuser@localhost IDENTIFIED BY 'dbpw';
Then, exit the client by typing quit and return.

Lastly, reboot the Raspberry Pi to make sure all the changes are updated.

Run the ownCloud Installation Wizard

We’re finally ready to start running ownCloud! From the Raspberry Pi command prompt, type startx and return to enter the GUI so we can launch a web browser. Using the browser, navigate to http://localhost/owncloud. If everything was set up correctly, you should see the following screen:

Install Owncloud on Raspberry Pi

Fill in the blanks with whatever you would like your ownCloud administrator account credentials to be, click the “Storage & database” drop-down and verify that the storage directory is correct and that MySQL is selected. Also enter the MySQL account credentials that you set up in the last section. Click the “Finish setup” button and you should be dropped into ownCloud’s web interface.

It is possible (if you’re accessing ownCloud from a different computer using the Raspberry Pi’s IP address) that you may run across a “Trusted Domains” error. If that happens, follow the instructions on the screen. If you are unable to automatically add your domain to the whitelist, you will need to do so manually by editing the config.php file in the owncloud directory.

Install Owncloud on Raspberry Pi

Open a terminal window and type sudo nano /var/www/owncloud/config/config.php to edit the configuration file. Look for the section that looks like the following:

'trusted_domains' =>
  array (
   0 => 'localhost',

and change it to look like

'trusted_domains' =>
  array (
   0 => 'localhost', 'IP OR URL ADDRESS HERE',

where you simply add the IP or URL addresses that you wish to use to access ownCloud. This will come in handy later when we set up remote access. Save the config.php file and reload ownCloud. You should be now able to access the application without a problem!

For more information, please see the ownCloud documentation as well as detailed instructions here and here. I’ve done my best to parse all the pertinent instructions from these sources into something simpler for even the novice to be able to follow.

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