How To Repair A Broken Lamp Cord

The Barbie broke one of our softbox studio lights when she tripped over it during a live stream. It seemed like a simple-enough repair, and with a little old-fashioned grit (and the proper tools), I was able to get it working like new again!

Parts and Tools (affiliate links):
Helping hands: http://amzn.to/2vkDUyY
Soldering iron/station: http://amzn.to/2vkzqbH
Lead-free solder: http://amzn.to/2fuuawR
Wire stripper: http://amzn.to/2wBdevj
“Warranty Voider” kit: http://amzn.to/2xEMAPg
Tweezer set: http://amzn.to/2wBzfu9
Softbox light kit: http://amzn.to/2vjzGta

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Music: “8-Bit Voyager” by Anders Enger Jensen https://goo.gl/xwsLQe

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TRANSCRIPT:

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and the Lindsay component wait 45 let me

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check my price sorry during one of her

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recent Facebook live broadcasts Barbie

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accidentally broke one of our Studios

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softbox lights and these things aren’t

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cheap so I guess I’m just gonna have to

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crack it open and see what the problem

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is and see if I can repair it wish me

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luck

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the first thing to do really is to give

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the light a quick visual inspection to

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see if anything is obviously wrong with

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it

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well this severed wire might just be the

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culprit looks like it got ripped out of

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the switch box in the crash so we’ll

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just have to open her up and see if

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there’s any more damage

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I’ll use my handy dandy warranty voyeurs

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to gently but firmly pry the switch box

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open these are a great tool for working

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on electronics and I highly recommend

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having a pair in your toolbox I’ll put a

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link to them in the doobly-doo

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just keep working on the two halves of

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the switch box until they come apart

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exposing the switch mechanism it looks

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like both wire leads became disconnected

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from the switch terminals so we’ll just

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have to fix both sides let’s peel a

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little extra wire back from each of the

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switch lead so we have some more wire to

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work with it clean up the exposed wire a

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little bit I’ll use my strippers to cut

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off a little more insulation so I’ve got

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plenty of wire to work then just go

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ahead and twist the strands to make it

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nice and clean before we go any further

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I’ll just test everything to make sure

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it’ll still fit inside the switch

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housing looks good now to reattach the

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leads the switch leads were originally

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crimped on this thing when it was

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assembled so I’m gonna quickly see if I

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can pry the terminals open it’s worth a

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shot

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even if it’s a long you’re gonna use one

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of my piccolo flathead screwdrivers to

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attempt to pry the crimp terminal back

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open alas it is of no use I guess I’ll

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just have to go on to Plan B then it’s

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not an elegant solution to be sure but

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for this situation I’m just gonna have

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to solder the leads

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the terminals directly I don’t like the

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idea of doing this mostly because the

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solder doesn’t readily bond to the steel

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switch terminal so I don’t think it’s

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gonna hold too strongly

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I can reinforce that later though the

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most difficult part of this solder job

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is actually getting it to stick to the

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switch turn the solder I’m using prefers

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to attach itself to the hot tip of the

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iron because the switch assembly acts

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like a heat sink it just makes the

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terminal to cool well eventually I got a

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generous blob of solder to bond and

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freeze on each terminal so now I can

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tend the tips of each lead wire and

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solder them onto the terminals the first

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lead who is pretty easy but because of

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the tight tolerances inside the switch

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box

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I needed to hold the second wire down

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pretty close to the solder joint instead

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of potentially exposing my fingertips to

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a 750 degree soldering iron I opted to

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hold this lead down with a pair of

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tweezers

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again I’ll put links to all the tools

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I’m using in the doobly-doo just in case

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you need something with both leads

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soldered back onto their terminals I’ll

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just run a quick continuity check with

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multimeter make sure you do this check

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with the switch closed and the test

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probes contacting the copper wire to

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make sure that your solder joints are

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conducting appropriately everything

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checks out so far so I just need to

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stuff the returned wire back into the

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switch housing and press the two halves

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back together

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before I finish though I’m going to

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reinforce these solder joints with a

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liberal application of hot snot

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I generally hate when manufacturers do

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this because it makes things harder to

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work on but I just don’t trust the

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solder to you the job on its own with

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the hot glue cooled and solidified and

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just press the two halves the switch box

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back together plug her in and give her a

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quick function check

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ESCO so repairing this light turned out

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to be a lot easier than I expected so

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that’s great now I have two studio

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lights to work with again yay now if you

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like to see more how to’s repairs and

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teardown videos like this one go ahead

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and click that subscribe button down

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below

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and don’t forget to hit the bell

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notification icon and let me know down

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in the dooblydoo

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what you would like to see me repair

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next time until then

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Tallyho y’all

 

6 thoughts on “How To Repair A Broken Lamp Cord”

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