Make your 3D printer into a wireless print server by adding a Raspberry Pi and capture timelapse videos with an on-board webcam. What do you want to see me print next?
How To Install OctoPi http://airbornesurfer.com/2017/06/setup-octopi-raspberry-pi-octoprint/
AFFILIATE LINKS:
LED Lighting http://amzn.to/2rBwaZs
The Simpsons http://amzn.to/2sIXSTX
The Lord of the Rings http://amzn.to/2tcMk8w
Jurassic Park http://amzn.to/2sJ5t4w
Running Scared http://amzn.to/2rq8Nhf
Outlet Saver http://amzn.to/2rqigVK
Right-Angle USB Cable http://amzn.to/2sDdIQl
USB Power Adapter http://amzn.to/2szR7TM
Webcam http://amzn.to/2sDaYCo
THINGIVERSE LINKS:
Cable Loop/Holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:934927
Raspberry Pi Mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205961
Camera Mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2389663
Spool Holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:255229
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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. At least one new video per month! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!
TRASNCRIPT:
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hey folks Atari here I’ve been playing
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around with this Robo 3d printer for a
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while now
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and I think I’ve got the hang of it
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finally the thing about 3d printing is
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it’s very much a hacker minded hobby
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there’s a lot of trial and error
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involved in the process and most
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consumer grade printers do lack a lot of
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the out-of-the-box features got some of
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the higher-end printers include which
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leads people like me to go ahead and
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build their own upgrades what I’ve done
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here is I’ve installed a Raspberry Pi
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with the octoprint software to make a
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self-contained Wi-Fi printer and then I
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installed a webcam to capture time-lapse
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videos of the print process as well as
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some LED lighting for better video
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capturing and then I’ve you know kind of
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rejiggered the cabling and the filament
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feeds so that they’re going to move a
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little bit better and they don’t be
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caught up in may in the works inside it
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just makes for a whole lot better
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experience so this video is going to
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walk you through the process that I use
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to install these physical upgrades but I
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will have a link in the doobly-doo and
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probably up here in the corner a link to
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a full how-to article about about
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installing and setting up octoprint on
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the Raspberry Pi or octopi as its called
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I will put a link to that I’ll have a
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full write-up on airborne surfer comm so
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you can follow that guide there but
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again this is going to walk through the
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physical installation and with that with
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the write-up on the software that should
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get you through a pretty much down the
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gist of it the first thing I’m going to
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fix is the zip tie loop for the cable
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loom having a zip tie here has been
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holding the Loom a little too rigidly
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and has led to a few failed prints I’ve
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already cut the zip ties since removing
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the hood and now I need to replace the
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mounting point for the zip tire I found
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a suitable two piece cable loop on
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Thingiverse that holds the Loom in
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face while being loose enough to allow
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some play in the tension remove the two
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screws holding the loop mount in place
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then replace it with the base of the
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two-piece print hang on to the second
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piece for later next thing to do is
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install some lighting I picked up the
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self-adhesive USB powered LED strip from
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Amazon and ran it along the interior of
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the hood be sure to start with the USB
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plug on the slide with the cable well
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this is the same side that the loop
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mount is installed now before we put the
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hood back on go ahead and unplug the USB
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cable and the power cable from the
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printer place the hood back onto the
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base of the printer with the cable loop
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on the same side as the well make sure
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all the wiring is tucked inside the hood
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before pressing down to properly align
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the screw holes then screw the hood
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securely in place now gently lift the
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printer and set it on its side make sure
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to hold on to the print cartridge and
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abed as they’re likely to slide around
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to install the Raspberry Pi we’re going
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to need to siphon some electricity from
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the printers power supply specifically
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from the AC input coming from the switch
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on the back of the unit the power supply
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on a robo 3d printer is a tough zombie
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to remove
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there aren’t any screws or anything it’s
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just held in the friction very tightly
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as you can see taking quite a bit of
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effort to remove I found that shifting
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it down at an angle back and forth will
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garner the quickest results but your
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mileage may vary so here are the
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terminals these four go into the Arduino
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board that controls the printer and
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these three are for the AC what dish
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blue brown green and yellow OnLive just
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get get somebody killed
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you see standards exist for a reason
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well they exist for many reasons but one
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of them is safety international standard
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wiring colors are such so that one does
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not accidentally connect the wrong
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conduct to do the wrong terminal or
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worse touch the wrong live conductor
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this is wrong this is it’s good right
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I mean bed at least the goddamn
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terminals are clearly marked anyway
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we’re going to need to tap into these
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leads to direct power to a standard 110
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volt outlet so that we can use an
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off-the-shelf power converter to power
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the Raspberry Pi
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we’ll start by loosening the terminal
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screws and removing the leads I picked
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up this outlet saver at micro Center for
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a couple of dollars essentially it’s a
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10 inch long grounded extension cord
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take a pair of scissors and cut off the
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plug-in then strip away the outer casing
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leaving just the outlet end and the
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exposed inner wiring at least these
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wires are the proper colors so now we
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just need to strip the end of the
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insulation off of each of the wires so
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we can hook them up to the terminal now
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remember kids ground is green like grass
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on the ground white is neutral because
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it’s the neutral color and black is live
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because black lives matter anyway
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so we reinsert the leads from the switch
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into the proper terminal then insert the
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new leads from the extension cord into
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the appropriate terminals as well and
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tighten the retaining screw then simply
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reposition the power supply back inside
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its retainer with a good shove now we’re
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going to need to run a USB cable to
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connect the Arduino to the Raspberry Pi
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and because the Arduino is mounted so
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close to the edge of the base we’re
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going to use this right angle USB cable
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to make the connection now even with the
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low profile of the right angle cable
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though we’re going to need to
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move the Arduino to plug in the cable so
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just remove these three mounting screws
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from the Arduino and carefully plug in
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the USB cable you can use the existing
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wires to hold the new USB cable in place
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just be careful not to pull any of the
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wires from the Arduino screw the Arduino
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back into place and you’re done with
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step 2
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I found the simple mouth for a Raspberry
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Pi on Thingiverse but I also printed if
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you get the hole size right you can use
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screws to mount the pie in place but I’m
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just going to use glue as it’s a little
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easier than drilling out the hole apply
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the glue to the mount and press the
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Raspberry Pi board into place some glue
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should come through the holes in the pie
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and mushroom over to provide a pretty
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good hole clamp some parts together
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until the glue sets apply glue along the
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perimeter of the mouth and press it into
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place on the bottom of the printer make
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sure to hold it tightly against the base
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of the printer until they do the sex
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finally plug the printer into one of the
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USB ports on the pie plug one end of a
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USB to micro USB cable into the power
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port on the Raspberry Pi and the other
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end into a wall wart power converter I
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think this one up at Tashi station for
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about 5 imperial credits just make sure
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it’s rated for at least 5 volts and 1
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ampere plug your power converter into
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your hacked up power outlet from earlier
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and now your pie is powered on by the
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main switch on the printer again you can
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use the existing wiring to hold your new
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wiring in place I picked up a short USB
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extension cable to connect the lighting
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to the PI as well so I just need to
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connect that the last USB connection is
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made for the webcam which will record
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our time-lapse videos for this i’ll
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thread the USB cable from the front of
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the printer through the cable well to
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the underside of the printer and connect
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it to the Raspberry Pi
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before setting the printer up light go
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ahead and insert the cable loom in place
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inside the loop installed earlier and
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enclose it with the locking piece then
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carefully write the printer this is a
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widget that I designed myself and
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Tinkercad and I’ll put a link to it in
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the doobly-do what it does is it clamps
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onto the edge of the print bed and
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allows you to mount a clamp style webcam
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level with the print bed so you can
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capture time-lapse video that stabilize
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to the y-axis stabilizing one axis is
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nice because otherwise motion gets
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really messy and you can’t really see
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much detail in your printing lastly
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we’re going to turn the printer around
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to the back so I can install the new
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spool holder that I printed this is a
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replacement for the stock holder that
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hangs off the side of the hood this one
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keeps the footprint of the printer a
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little smaller and keeps the filament
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closer to the center axis of the printer
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which helps keep the feed steady
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preventing jams and tangles and it just
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grips onto the side of the hood and
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slides down to lock in place
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now if you’ll install these upgrades as
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soon as possible after setting up your
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logo through the printer you’ll find
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that you’re going to get a much better
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and much more consistent quality in your
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prints and you’ll have a lot fewer
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headaches along the way so anyway thanks
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for watching and if you like this video
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give it a thumbs up and click that
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little subscribe button and be sure to
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share it with your friends and in the
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meantime uh what would you like to see
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me 3d print leave an answer in the
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comments below until next time Tallyho
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y’all
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[Music]
6 comments