How To Build a Digital Photo Frame From a Raspberry Pi (Preliminary/Scope of Work)

I’ve had a first-generation Raspberry Pi B+ sitting around the house for quite a while now, and I’ve been wanting to build a few projects with it, but I simply haven’t settled on anything interesting until now. One project that I’ve had mulling around in my head for a while has been an internet-connected digital photo frame that a group of authorized users could add photos to remotely. Building a digital photo frame from a Raspberry Pi seemed like a nice project to combine software, hardware, and some light woodworking into a handsome package that I could eventually gift to someone.

With the gift strategy in mind, I’m going to be building this project as a plug-and-play device that I could “set and forget” in my Granny’s house, allow the rest of the family to drop photos into a shared folder, automatically update, and turn on and off at specified times. Taking into account Granny’s flowery language, I’m going to dub this Project Spoofy.

Project Spoofy (Digital Photo Frame From A Raspberry Pi) Workflow:

Set up Raspberry Pi

Set up cloud photo repository

Access cloud photo repository with DDNS/Port forwarding

Set up slideshow

Automatically login

Automatically run DDNS client and slideshow on boot

Automatically reboot system at set time to update slideshow

Power both the monitor and Raspberry Pi from single power supply input.

Automatically power on and off system

Replace default Apache information page with custom landing page

Build frame to house monitor and Raspberry Pi assembly

Naturally, we will need a few parts and supplies as the project goes on, but to start we’ll simply need a Raspberry Pi (with power supply), HDMI monitor and cable, and a keyboard and mouse. Since I’m using an early-generation RPi, I’ll also use a WiFi dongle to connect to the local wireless network.

This isn’t my first foray into the Raspberry Pi, but this will be my first full-on project with a tangible outcome. I’ve tinkered with an RPi-powered XBMC box (which couldn’t run 1080p video, so it was shitcanned) and played some with developing the RPi as a viable lightweight workstation terminal to varying levels of success. Naturally, like everything else in this blog, it’s a learning experience and a work in progress, so stay tuned as I develop and deploy the project!

Getting Started With Raspberry Pi

The Raspberry Pi is proving to be quite an interesting–and capable–little device. It’s a small system-on-a-chip (SoC) board with USB, GPIO, and HDMI interfaces that provides computing power roughly equivalent to a low-end smartphone in an open format for $35. Granted, the “real” price of an RPi depends on what you’re planning to do with it, but will definitely include an SD card (6GB or bigger, depending on your chosen OS flavor) and will often include a monitor, keyboard and mouse, and power supply. Sometimes you can scrounge around the workshop for these parts, but you may need to purchase them. There are a number of outfitters that market “starter kits” with common parts at various price points, so just know that getting started with Raspberry Pi might cost slightly more than the $35 core price tag.

The next thing that you’re going to need to know is how to use Linux. Don’t mess around with that Windows 10 IoT nonsense. Everyone who is anyone who is worth their salt is going to be developing in FOSS (Free/Open-Source Software) because that’s how and why the RPi was made. Besides, putting Windows 10 on RPi requires that you install Windows 10 on your desktop, and I wouldn’t entirely recommend that. Don’t worry if you’ve never used Linux, it’s all part of the fun! The Raspberry Pi was developed as an educational tool to help people learn how to better interact with sophisticated computer systems–how to read new languages and write in code. There are lots of resources online that can get you familiar with the basics, including an entire section of this very website.

Getting Started With Raspberry Pi

Once you’re ready to begin working with the Pi, you’re going to need an operating system. This–if you didn’t know–is the set of instructions that tell the computer how to process information and how to behave under certain general conditions. By default, Raspberry Pi uses Raspbian, a specially-designed version of the Debian Linux distro. You could use Ubuntu Mate, OpenELEC, but I like the “official” support that comes from Raspbian, and it’s what I’ll be using for most of my projects.

Download the NOOBS installer from the Raspberry Pi Foundation and unzip it to a convenient location on your main computer. Stock NOOBS comes with Raspbian and WiFi support by default while NOOBS Lite will require a hardline connection to the internet to download your OS of choice.

Download the SD Card Formatter from the SD Association and install it according to their instructions. Insert your SD card into your card reader and format it with the application.

Copy the extracted contents of the NOOBS zip file to the formatted SD card, eject it, and insert the card into the slot on the Raspberry Pi.

Make sure that your Raspberry Pi has keyboard, mouse, and monitor plugged in, then plug the USB power cable into the Raspberry Pi. The device will boot into the NOOBS installer and allow you to choose your operating system. Select “Raspbian” from the list and click “Install”. The process may take a few minutes, so fix a cuppa tea and have a sit. When installation is finished, the configuration menu will appear. Make the appropriate adjustments to settings, then click the “Finish” button.

If you are dumped out to a text screen asking for login information, the default user is “pi” (always lower-case user names in Linux) and the password is “raspberry”. You can always change these credentials later. If you prefer to play with the graphical user interface, type startx and hit enter/return.

How To Install ownCloud on Raspberry Pi

OwnCloud is a clever self-hosted alternative to Dropbox and its ilk that provides the same services without the expense of subscriptions or the likelihood that government or marketer’s eyes are prying into your documents. For most consumers, this might be considered more trouble than it’s worth, but rolling your own cloud server under your control is essential to keeping the free and open web–well, free and open. The Raspberry Pi’s $35 price tag makes it especially handsome for a low-cost cloud server using free and open source software. In addition to being an excellent option for cloud storage–especially for those of us with terabytes of material to store–ownCloud is going to provide us with easy online access to photo storage for Project Spoofy. We’ll just point the slideshow application to the ownCloud folders for simplicity later! For now, let’s get started with how to install ownCloud on Raspberry Pi.

How to install ownCloud on Raspberry Pi

First, we need to add the ownCloud repository to the Pi’s sources list. At the command prompt, type sudo nano /etc/apt/sources.list.d/owncloud.list and hit return. This will create a new text file in the Nano text editor. On the first line of the text file, type deb /

Type CTRL+x to exit Nano, then Y and return to save.

Now we need to add the repository key so we can access the repository. Download the key by typing wget at the command prompt. Once the key is downloaded, add it to the repository by invoking sudo apt-key add - < Release.key

After adding the key, update the repositories by typing sudo apt-get update and return.

Now, we can install ownCloud by typing sudo apt-get install owncloud and return. Press Y for any questions the system asks you, and sit back while ownCloud and MySQL are installed. At some point, MySQL will prompt for a  root password. Choose something interesting and note it for later.

Setting Up ownCloud’s Directory Permissions

Once everything is finished installing, it’s time to set up ownCloud’s directory permissions. First thing, we need to make sure that HTTP has ownership of the ownCloud directory. To do this, make www-data the owner of owncloud by invoking the following command:

chown -R www-data:www-data /var/www/owncloud

Now that HTTP has ownership, we need to adjust the permissions for maximum security. ownCloud has actually provided a script to set all the permissions automatically. Copy the following, paste into a shell script (*.sh file, such as “” for example) using Nano, and save to a convenient location on the Pi.


printf "Creating possible missing Directories\n"
mkdir -p $ocpath/data
mkdir -p $ocpath/assets

printf "chmod Files and Directories\n"
find ${ocpath}/ -type f -print0 | xargs -0 chmod 0640
find ${ocpath}/ -type d -print0 | xargs -0 chmod 0750

printf "chown Directories\n"
chown -R ${rootuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/
chown -R ${htuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/apps/
chown -R ${htuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/config/
chown -R ${htuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/data/
chown -R ${htuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/themes/
chown -R ${htuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/assets/

chmod +x ${ocpath}/occ

printf "chmod/chown .htaccess\n"
if [ -f ${ocpath}/.htaccess ]
  chmod 0644 ${ocpath}/.htaccess
  chown ${rootuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/.htaccess
if [ -f ${ocpath}/data/.htaccess ]
  chmod 0644 ${ocpath}/data/.htaccess
  chown ${rootuser}:${htgroup} ${ocpath}/data/.htaccess

Now, make the script executable by typing chmod u+x / and enter, then execute it by typing

Set up MySQL

One last step before we run the installation wizard: we must create a MySQL database. When we installed ownCloud, MySQL was installed by default, so we have that going already. Now, just log into the MariaDB client as root by typing mysql -u root -p and return at the command prompt. MySQL will ask for the root password you set earlier then display a new command prompt.

You’ll need to choose a database name, user, and password for ownCloud. In this example, I’ll be using some generics (dbname, dbuser, dbpw), but feel free to make it your own.

Type the following commands at the MySQL prompt (case-sensitive):


GRANT ALL ON dbname.* TO dbuser@localhost IDENTIFIED BY 'dbpw';
Then, exit the client by typing quit and return.

Lastly, reboot the Raspberry Pi to make sure all the changes are updated.

Run the ownCloud Installation Wizard

We’re finally ready to start running ownCloud! From the Raspberry Pi command prompt, type startx and return to enter the GUI so we can launch a web browser. Using the browser, navigate to http://localhost/owncloud. If everything was set up correctly, you should see the following screen:

Install Owncloud on Raspberry Pi

Fill in the blanks with whatever you would like your ownCloud administrator account credentials to be, click the “Storage & database” drop-down and verify that the storage directory is correct and that MySQL is selected. Also enter the MySQL account credentials that you set up in the last section. Click the “Finish setup” button and you should be dropped into ownCloud’s web interface.

It is possible (if you’re accessing ownCloud from a different computer using the Raspberry Pi’s IP address) that you may run across a “Trusted Domains” error. If that happens, follow the instructions on the screen. If you are unable to automatically add your domain to the whitelist, you will need to do so manually by editing the config.php file in the owncloud directory.

Install Owncloud on Raspberry Pi

Open a terminal window and type sudo nano /var/www/owncloud/config/config.php to edit the configuration file. Look for the section that looks like the following:

'trusted_domains' =>
  array (
   0 => 'localhost',

and change it to look like

'trusted_domains' =>
  array (
   0 => 'localhost', 'IP OR URL ADDRESS HERE',

where you simply add the IP or URL addresses that you wish to use to access ownCloud. This will come in handy later when we set up remote access. Save the config.php file and reload ownCloud. You should be now able to access the application without a problem!

For more information, please see the ownCloud documentation as well as detailed instructions here and here. I’ve done my best to parse all the pertinent instructions from these sources into something simpler for even the novice to be able to follow.

How To Set Up Dynamic DNS Using No-IP on Raspberry Pi

Now that we have a working ownCloud installation on our Raspberry Pi, we need a way to be able to remotely access the device from across the internet. Knowing the IP address and forwarding the appropriate ports on the router is only part of the story: most residential ISPs will periodically change the external IP address of their customers for logistical reasons that we won’t get into here (it’s a matter of traditional infrastructure limitations and convenience for the ISP). We’re going to need a way to automatically keep track of the IP address of the device as it potentially changes; as a fortuitous consequence, we’re going to be able to get an easy-to-remember URL in exchange. To do all this, we’re going to set up dynamic DNS using No-IP on Raspberry Pi.

No-IP is a service that allows you to assign a static domain name to a dynamic IP address. Their basic level of service is free, but only affords a limited selection of domains and has to be renewed every 30 days. There are paid offerings available with more features, but for our purposes, we’ll stick with the free product. To get started, sign up for an account at Once logged into your account, click the “Add a Host” button and fill in the appropriate information: choose a domain, host type [which should be DNS Host (A)], and the external IP address for the network to which the Raspberry Pi is connected. Click the “Add Host” button at the bottom, and then it’s time to set up the client on the RPi.

Using No-IP on Raspberry PI

On the Raspberry Pi, open a terminal session. The first thing we’ll need is a directory to install the Dynamic Update Client. Type mkdir /home/pi/noip and press enter, then navigate to the directory by typing cd /home/pi/noip.

Download the client by typing wget then unzar the archive file by invoking tar vzxf noip-duc-linux.tar.gz and enter the newly written directory with cd noip-2.1.9-1

Now we can install the client using sudo make and then sudo make install. During the installation process, you will be asked for your NoIP credentials as well as your preferred refresh interval (in minutes). Enter them when prompted, then wait for the setup to complete.

Once the installation is complete, run the client by invoking sudo /usr/local/bin/noip2. You can always check on the status of the client by invoking sudo noip2 -S (for status!)

Port Forwarding

Now, all you have to do is set up port forwarding on your router to point port 80 to the Raspberry Pi. Every router’s instructions are going to be slightly different, so check your particular model’s documentation. My Linksys router hides the port forwarding options under the security section and the “Apps and gaming” section. If you make sure that HTTP (port 80) points to the internal IP address for the  RPi, you should be able to navigate to the domain you previously set up on No-IP and reach the default Apache information page. If you get this page, everything is working!

How To Install OctoPi (Raspberry Pi OctoPrint)

Having a 3D printer at your disposal is pretty amazing, but it can be a pain when you have to keep the printer tethered to your working computer for hours (or even days) while it runs! I was looking for a simple solution to drive my printer while I used my laptop for other purposes (like going to work during the week) when I came across OctoPrint, an open-source 3D printer web interface for controlling and monitoring the printer from a remote computer. The software essentially creates a running web server for the printer and takes the place of printing suites like MatterControl or Repetier, so it does require running on a machine connected to the printer via USB. If you have an old PC gathering dust, you can easily set it up and have a permanent print station. I, however, don’t have the luxury of a lot of space, so I wanted a more portable option that I could pull out when I needed to use it and easily put away. For this, I chose the Raspberry Pi as it is small enough to easily fit into the printer’s form factor, doesn’t require much electricity to run, and has built-in WiFi compatibility. The OctoPrint software even comes as a complete Linux distro optimized for Raspberry Pi called OctoPi.

Out of the box, OctoPi incorporates the LAMP stack for web hosting, a complete OctoPrint installation (including dependencies) for controlling the 3D printer, the mjpg-streamer package for streaming timelapse videos of the print process, and CuraEngine for slicing. This last item, however, is really moot because of the anemic computing power of the Raspberry Pi. I prefer to slice models on my working computer then transfer over the network to OctoPi for printing.

OctoPi is a pretty simple setup with a lot of really good documentation both at the site and their GitHub page. To start, make sure you have Etcher installed and simply download the latest stable version from (Be sure to grab the md5 file to verify the download as well!). Unzip the downloaded image and burn it to your SD card using Etcher like you would any other RPi image.

OctoPi network setup
If you don’t know how to manage these settings, you might think twice before diving into 3D Printing. Just a thought.

Open the newly burnt SD card as a removable drive in your computer’s file explorer. In the root folder of the SD card, use a text editor to open octopi-network.txt and edit the file as necessary to match your network configuration. Don’t forget to delete the # at the beginning of the appropriate lines or OctoPi will not connect to the network!

Eject the SD card from your computer, pop it into the Raspberry Pi, run a USB cable from the Pi to the printer, and turn on the Pi by plugging it into a power supply. Give the Pi a minute to boot up, and SSH into it from your main computer. The Pi will be located on the network as octopi.local (or an IP address assigned by the router). As usual, the default username is pi and the default password is raspberry.

Change the password using the passwd command, then close your SSH session.

Open a browser on your main computer and point it to octopi.local (or the assigned IP address). The OctoPrint interface will open with the “First-Run Wizard” and prompt you to set up access controls such as username and password. This is specific to OctoPrint and independent of the username and password used to access the Pi via SSH. If you don’t plan on having your printer exposed to the Internet or having anyone else connecting to your network, you may disable access control. I keep it active just in case, so disable at your own risk!

Reboot OctoPi through the menu at the top right of the screen, and you will be all set to print! If you need more help, check out the README section of the GitHub page or drop a comment below!

How To Install Essential Upgrades To Your ROBO 3D Printer

Make your 3D printer into a wireless print server by adding a Raspberry Pi and capture timelapse videos with an on-board webcam. What do you want to see me print next?

How To Install OctoPi

LED Lighting
The Simpsons
The Lord of the Rings
Jurassic Park
Running Scared
Outlet Saver
Right-Angle USB Cable
USB Power Adapter

Cable Loop/Holder
Raspberry Pi Mount
Camera Mount
Spool Holder

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. At least one new video per month! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!


00:00:00,030 –> 00:00:04,799
hey folks Atari here I’ve been playing

00:00:02,790 –> 00:00:05,580
around with this Robo 3d printer for a

00:00:04,799 –> 00:00:07,379
while now

00:00:05,580 –> 00:00:10,110
and I think I’ve got the hang of it

00:00:07,379 –> 00:00:12,660
finally the thing about 3d printing is

00:00:10,110 –> 00:00:14,670
it’s very much a hacker minded hobby

00:00:12,660 –> 00:00:17,850
there’s a lot of trial and error

00:00:14,670 –> 00:00:20,369
involved in the process and most

00:00:17,850 –> 00:00:22,710
consumer grade printers do lack a lot of

00:00:20,369 –> 00:00:24,960
the out-of-the-box features got some of

00:00:22,710 –> 00:00:27,539
the higher-end printers include which

00:00:24,960 –> 00:00:30,300
leads people like me to go ahead and

00:00:27,539 –> 00:00:32,750
build their own upgrades what I’ve done

00:00:30,300 –> 00:00:36,090
here is I’ve installed a Raspberry Pi

00:00:32,750 –> 00:00:39,420
with the octoprint software to make a

00:00:36,090 –> 00:00:42,719
self-contained Wi-Fi printer and then I

00:00:39,420 –> 00:00:45,809
installed a webcam to capture time-lapse

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videos of the print process as well as

00:00:45,809 –> 00:00:51,449
some LED lighting for better video

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capturing and then I’ve you know kind of

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rejiggered the cabling and the filament

00:00:53,390 –> 00:00:58,559
feeds so that they’re going to move a

00:00:57,390 –> 00:01:01,949
little bit better and they don’t be

00:00:58,559 –> 00:01:03,629
caught up in may in the works inside it

00:01:01,949 –> 00:01:08,280
just makes for a whole lot better

00:01:03,629 –> 00:01:11,310
experience so this video is going to

00:01:08,280 –> 00:01:16,350
walk you through the process that I use

00:01:11,310 –> 00:01:19,320
to install these physical upgrades but I

00:01:16,350 –> 00:01:21,659
will have a link in the doobly-doo and

00:01:19,320 –> 00:01:26,150
probably up here in the corner a link to

00:01:21,659 –> 00:01:30,600
a full how-to article about about

00:01:26,150 –> 00:01:33,479
installing and setting up octoprint on

00:01:30,600 –> 00:01:35,100
the Raspberry Pi or octopi as its called

00:01:33,479 –> 00:01:38,220
I will put a link to that I’ll have a

00:01:35,100 –> 00:01:40,680
full write-up on airborne surfer comm so

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you can follow that guide there but

00:01:40,680 –> 00:01:46,380
again this is going to walk through the

00:01:42,720 –> 00:01:48,509
physical installation and with that with

00:01:46,380 –> 00:01:50,579
the write-up on the software that should

00:01:48,509 –> 00:01:52,680
get you through a pretty much down the

00:01:50,579 –> 00:01:54,840
gist of it the first thing I’m going to

00:01:52,680 –> 00:01:56,939
fix is the zip tie loop for the cable

00:01:54,840 –> 00:01:58,770
loom having a zip tie here has been

00:01:56,939 –> 00:02:01,950
holding the Loom a little too rigidly

00:01:58,770 –> 00:02:03,930
and has led to a few failed prints I’ve

00:02:01,950 –> 00:02:06,210
already cut the zip ties since removing

00:02:03,930 –> 00:02:08,640
the hood and now I need to replace the

00:02:06,210 –> 00:02:10,500
mounting point for the zip tire I found

00:02:08,640 –> 00:02:13,140
a suitable two piece cable loop on

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Thingiverse that holds the Loom in

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face while being loose enough to allow

00:02:15,480 –> 00:02:20,000
some play in the tension remove the two

00:02:18,240 –> 00:02:23,459
screws holding the loop mount in place

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then replace it with the base of the

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two-piece print hang on to the second

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piece for later next thing to do is

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install some lighting I picked up the

00:02:31,709 –> 00:02:37,680
self-adhesive USB powered LED strip from

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Amazon and ran it along the interior of

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the hood be sure to start with the USB

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plug on the slide with the cable well

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this is the same side that the loop

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mount is installed now before we put the

00:02:48,239 –> 00:02:53,459
hood back on go ahead and unplug the USB

00:02:51,120 –> 00:02:56,820
cable and the power cable from the

00:02:53,459 –> 00:02:59,130
printer place the hood back onto the

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base of the printer with the cable loop

00:02:59,130 –> 00:03:04,350
on the same side as the well make sure

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all the wiring is tucked inside the hood

00:03:04,350 –> 00:03:10,170
before pressing down to properly align

00:03:07,170 –> 00:03:14,550
the screw holes then screw the hood

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securely in place now gently lift the

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printer and set it on its side make sure

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to hold on to the print cartridge and

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abed as they’re likely to slide around

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to install the Raspberry Pi we’re going

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to need to siphon some electricity from

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the printers power supply specifically

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from the AC input coming from the switch

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on the back of the unit the power supply

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on a robo 3d printer is a tough zombie

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to remove

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there aren’t any screws or anything it’s

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just held in the friction very tightly

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as you can see taking quite a bit of

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effort to remove I found that shifting

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it down at an angle back and forth will

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garner the quickest results but your

00:04:01,380 –> 00:04:06,810
mileage may vary so here are the

00:04:04,290 –> 00:04:09,049
terminals these four go into the Arduino

00:04:06,810 –> 00:04:13,790
board that controls the printer and

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these three are for the AC what dish

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blue brown green and yellow OnLive just

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get get somebody killed

00:04:20,489 –> 00:04:27,039
you see standards exist for a reason

00:04:24,639 –> 00:04:29,889
well they exist for many reasons but one

00:04:27,039 –> 00:04:33,099
of them is safety international standard

00:04:29,889 –> 00:04:35,289
wiring colors are such so that one does

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not accidentally connect the wrong

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conduct to do the wrong terminal or

00:04:37,710 –> 00:04:47,740
worse touch the wrong live conductor

00:04:41,439 –> 00:04:50,199
this is wrong this is it’s good right

00:04:47,740 –> 00:04:57,370
I mean bed at least the goddamn

00:04:50,199 –> 00:04:59,770
terminals are clearly marked anyway

00:04:57,370 –> 00:05:02,919
we’re going to need to tap into these

00:04:59,770 –> 00:05:05,139
leads to direct power to a standard 110

00:05:02,919 –> 00:05:07,180
volt outlet so that we can use an

00:05:05,139 –> 00:05:08,379
off-the-shelf power converter to power

00:05:07,180 –> 00:05:10,870
the Raspberry Pi

00:05:08,379 –> 00:05:14,169
we’ll start by loosening the terminal

00:05:10,870 –> 00:05:16,629
screws and removing the leads I picked

00:05:14,169 –> 00:05:19,210
up this outlet saver at micro Center for

00:05:16,629 –> 00:05:21,310
a couple of dollars essentially it’s a

00:05:19,210 –> 00:05:23,919
10 inch long grounded extension cord

00:05:21,310 –> 00:05:26,770
take a pair of scissors and cut off the

00:05:23,919 –> 00:05:29,589
plug-in then strip away the outer casing

00:05:26,770 –> 00:05:32,740
leaving just the outlet end and the

00:05:29,589 –> 00:05:35,949
exposed inner wiring at least these

00:05:32,740 –> 00:05:37,779
wires are the proper colors so now we

00:05:35,949 –> 00:05:40,569
just need to strip the end of the

00:05:37,779 –> 00:05:43,330
insulation off of each of the wires so

00:05:40,569 –> 00:05:45,940
we can hook them up to the terminal now

00:05:43,330 –> 00:05:48,969
remember kids ground is green like grass

00:05:45,940 –> 00:05:51,960
on the ground white is neutral because

00:05:48,969 –> 00:05:55,719
it’s the neutral color and black is live

00:05:51,960 –> 00:05:58,060
because black lives matter anyway

00:05:55,719 –> 00:06:01,270
so we reinsert the leads from the switch

00:05:58,060 –> 00:06:04,240
into the proper terminal then insert the

00:06:01,270 –> 00:06:06,810
new leads from the extension cord into

00:06:04,240 –> 00:06:10,599
the appropriate terminals as well and

00:06:06,810 –> 00:06:13,270
tighten the retaining screw then simply

00:06:10,599 –> 00:06:19,629
reposition the power supply back inside

00:06:13,270 –> 00:06:21,789
its retainer with a good shove now we’re

00:06:19,629 –> 00:06:23,770
going to need to run a USB cable to

00:06:21,789 –> 00:06:26,259
connect the Arduino to the Raspberry Pi

00:06:23,770 –> 00:06:28,900
and because the Arduino is mounted so

00:06:26,259 –> 00:06:31,330
close to the edge of the base we’re

00:06:28,900 –> 00:06:33,789
going to use this right angle USB cable

00:06:31,330 –> 00:06:36,279
to make the connection now even with the

00:06:33,789 –> 00:06:38,409
low profile of the right angle cable

00:06:36,279 –> 00:06:41,469
though we’re going to need to

00:06:38,409 –> 00:06:43,569
move the Arduino to plug in the cable so

00:06:41,469 –> 00:06:46,179
just remove these three mounting screws

00:06:43,569 –> 00:06:48,669
from the Arduino and carefully plug in

00:06:46,179 –> 00:06:51,309
the USB cable you can use the existing

00:06:48,669 –> 00:06:54,219
wires to hold the new USB cable in place

00:06:51,309 –> 00:06:57,009
just be careful not to pull any of the

00:06:54,219 –> 00:06:58,959
wires from the Arduino screw the Arduino

00:06:57,009 –> 00:06:59,619
back into place and you’re done with

00:06:58,959 –> 00:07:03,279
step 2

00:06:59,619 –> 00:07:05,769
I found the simple mouth for a Raspberry

00:07:03,279 –> 00:07:08,379
Pi on Thingiverse but I also printed if

00:07:05,769 –> 00:07:10,959
you get the hole size right you can use

00:07:08,379 –> 00:07:12,610
screws to mount the pie in place but I’m

00:07:10,959 –> 00:07:15,339
just going to use glue as it’s a little

00:07:12,610 –> 00:07:17,439
easier than drilling out the hole apply

00:07:15,339 –> 00:07:20,349
the glue to the mount and press the

00:07:17,439 –> 00:07:22,419
Raspberry Pi board into place some glue

00:07:20,349 –> 00:07:24,279
should come through the holes in the pie

00:07:22,419 –> 00:07:26,409
and mushroom over to provide a pretty

00:07:24,279 –> 00:07:29,919
good hole clamp some parts together

00:07:26,409 –> 00:07:32,110
until the glue sets apply glue along the

00:07:29,919 –> 00:07:35,050
perimeter of the mouth and press it into

00:07:32,110 –> 00:07:36,669
place on the bottom of the printer make

00:07:35,050 –> 00:07:39,779
sure to hold it tightly against the base

00:07:36,669 –> 00:07:42,579
of the printer until they do the sex

00:07:39,779 –> 00:07:45,789
finally plug the printer into one of the

00:07:42,579 –> 00:07:48,279
USB ports on the pie plug one end of a

00:07:45,789 –> 00:07:50,529
USB to micro USB cable into the power

00:07:48,279 –> 00:07:52,659
port on the Raspberry Pi and the other

00:07:50,529 –> 00:07:54,999
end into a wall wart power converter I

00:07:52,659 –> 00:07:57,669
think this one up at Tashi station for

00:07:54,999 –> 00:07:59,860
about 5 imperial credits just make sure

00:07:57,669 –> 00:08:02,709
it’s rated for at least 5 volts and 1

00:07:59,860 –> 00:08:04,689
ampere plug your power converter into

00:08:02,709 –> 00:08:07,239
your hacked up power outlet from earlier

00:08:04,689 –> 00:08:10,839
and now your pie is powered on by the

00:08:07,239 –> 00:08:12,759
main switch on the printer again you can

00:08:10,839 –> 00:08:16,719
use the existing wiring to hold your new

00:08:12,759 –> 00:08:18,579
wiring in place I picked up a short USB

00:08:16,719 –> 00:08:20,259
extension cable to connect the lighting

00:08:18,579 –> 00:08:24,369
to the PI as well so I just need to

00:08:20,259 –> 00:08:26,259
connect that the last USB connection is

00:08:24,369 –> 00:08:28,479
made for the webcam which will record

00:08:26,259 –> 00:08:30,699
our time-lapse videos for this i’ll

00:08:28,479 –> 00:08:32,589
thread the USB cable from the front of

00:08:30,699 –> 00:08:34,659
the printer through the cable well to

00:08:32,589 –> 00:08:37,350
the underside of the printer and connect

00:08:34,659 –> 00:08:40,120
it to the Raspberry Pi

00:08:37,350 –> 00:08:41,950
before setting the printer up light go

00:08:40,120 –> 00:08:44,500
ahead and insert the cable loom in place

00:08:41,950 –> 00:08:46,690
inside the loop installed earlier and

00:08:44,500 –> 00:08:51,220
enclose it with the locking piece then

00:08:46,690 –> 00:08:52,900
carefully write the printer this is a

00:08:51,220 –> 00:08:54,670
widget that I designed myself and

00:08:52,900 –> 00:08:56,980
Tinkercad and I’ll put a link to it in

00:08:54,670 –> 00:08:58,900
the doobly-do what it does is it clamps

00:08:56,980 –> 00:09:01,270
onto the edge of the print bed and

00:08:58,900 –> 00:09:03,970
allows you to mount a clamp style webcam

00:09:01,270 –> 00:09:06,130
level with the print bed so you can

00:09:03,970 –> 00:09:09,490
capture time-lapse video that stabilize

00:09:06,130 –> 00:09:11,860
to the y-axis stabilizing one axis is

00:09:09,490 –> 00:09:13,480
nice because otherwise motion gets

00:09:11,860 –> 00:09:17,410
really messy and you can’t really see

00:09:13,480 –> 00:09:19,180
much detail in your printing lastly

00:09:17,410 –> 00:09:20,800
we’re going to turn the printer around

00:09:19,180 –> 00:09:23,410
to the back so I can install the new

00:09:20,800 –> 00:09:25,180
spool holder that I printed this is a

00:09:23,410 –> 00:09:27,940
replacement for the stock holder that

00:09:25,180 –> 00:09:29,590
hangs off the side of the hood this one

00:09:27,940 –> 00:09:31,720
keeps the footprint of the printer a

00:09:29,590 –> 00:09:33,700
little smaller and keeps the filament

00:09:31,720 –> 00:09:35,620
closer to the center axis of the printer

00:09:33,700 –> 00:09:38,470
which helps keep the feed steady

00:09:35,620 –> 00:09:40,060
preventing jams and tangles and it just

00:09:38,470 –> 00:09:43,290
grips onto the side of the hood and

00:09:40,060 –> 00:09:43,290
slides down to lock in place

00:09:43,950 –> 00:09:48,580
now if you’ll install these upgrades as

00:09:46,690 –> 00:09:50,530
soon as possible after setting up your

00:09:48,580 –> 00:09:51,730
logo through the printer you’ll find

00:09:50,530 –> 00:09:55,030
that you’re going to get a much better

00:09:51,730 –> 00:09:57,370
and much more consistent quality in your

00:09:55,030 –> 00:10:01,540
prints and you’ll have a lot fewer

00:09:57,370 –> 00:10:03,250
headaches along the way so anyway thanks

00:10:01,540 –> 00:10:05,320
for watching and if you like this video

00:10:03,250 –> 00:10:07,690
give it a thumbs up and click that

00:10:05,320 –> 00:10:10,060
little subscribe button and be sure to

00:10:07,690 –> 00:10:12,940
share it with your friends and in the

00:10:10,060 –> 00:10:15,220
meantime uh what would you like to see

00:10:12,940 –> 00:10:18,040
me 3d print leave an answer in the

00:10:15,220 –> 00:10:20,280
comments below until next time Tallyho

00:10:18,040 –> 00:10:20,280

00:10:32,590 –> 00:10:38,659