Category Archives: How-to

Moto X Pure Battery Replacement (Style) / How To Replace Moto X Pure Battery (Style)

Walkthrough Moto X Pure Battery Replacement or how to change battery Moto X Style. The Moto X Pure (Style) Edition has been a solid workhorse of a phone for several years, and with a new battery, it will likely keep going for at least one or two more! In this video, I’ll show you how to replace the battery in a Moto X Pure (Style) Edition smartphone. I appreciate you stopping by, leaving a comment and subscribing for more adventitious geekery! Thanks!

PARTS/TOOLS USED:
“Warranty Voiders”: http://amzn.to/2e7Ljui
iFixit 64 Bit Driver Kit: http://amzn.to/2y0Xmjf
“Self-Healing” Mat: http://amzn.to/2j28GJe
Replacement Battery for Moto X Pure/Style: http://amzn.to/2y1ziwE

Omoton Moto X Pure/Style Case Unbox & Review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFvfrj0nckQ

How To Add Wireless Charging To Any Device: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Op7LggpvKmc

Music by Anders Enger Jensen: http://eox.no

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Takstar SGC-598 Microphone http://amzn.to/2kz3r4n
Azden 310LT Wireless Lavalier Microphone http://amzn.to/2xqLHhw
Safstar Softbox Lighting Kit http://amzn.to/2yzjyVD
DGK Color Grading/White Balance Calibration Card http://amzn.to/2kzm7Rl
Parrot Teleprompter http://amzn.to/2xsMrxG
Zoom H1 Audio Recorder http://amzn.to/2xqLqLz
Selens LED Panel Camera Light http://amzn.to/2yzpaiP
Apple MacBook Pro http://amzn.to/2gmmVVp
Edited with Final Cut Pro https://goo.gl/GL8QFc

Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. There’s something new every week! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

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Continue reading Moto X Pure Battery Replacement (Style) / How To Replace Moto X Pure Battery (Style)

How To Repair A Broken Lamp Cord

The Barbie broke one of our softbox studio lights when she tripped over it during a live stream. It seemed like a simple-enough repair, and with a little old-fashioned grit (and the proper tools), I was able to get it working like new again!

Parts and Tools (affiliate links):
Helping hands: http://amzn.to/2vkDUyY
Soldering iron/station: http://amzn.to/2vkzqbH
Lead-free solder: http://amzn.to/2fuuawR
Wire stripper: http://amzn.to/2wBdevj
“Warranty Voider” kit: http://amzn.to/2xEMAPg
Tweezer set: http://amzn.to/2wBzfu9
Softbox light kit: http://amzn.to/2vjzGta

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Music: “8-Bit Voyager” by Anders Enger Jensen https://goo.gl/xwsLQe

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. There’s something new every week! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

Continue reading How To Repair A Broken Lamp Cord

How To Build A Battery Tester

Do you have some rechargeable batteries lying around that need a capacity check? Today, we’ll take an Arduino Nano and a few other electronic parts to build a AA battery tester that will give us fairly accurate “real world” readings on NiMH batteries. This little device will come in handy for the next project on the list, so be sure to subscribe for more how-tos!

How To Install The Correct Arduino Nano Driver https://goo.gl/zWB4BD

Parts List (Affiliate links):
Breadboard & jumpers: http://amzn.to/2uq6KNW
AA battery holder: http://amzn.to/2eHNEOa
Terminal blocks: http://amzn.to/2uq1IRD
1R10W Ceramic Resistor: http://amzn.to/2eHKk5H
Arduino Nano (clone): http://amzn.to/2uQAd4Z
1.5R10W Power Resistor: http://amzn.to/2eIieHc
IRF3205 MOSFET: http://amzn.to/2eInMBG
10KR Resistor: http://amzn.to/2uPLjXQ
Nokia 5110 Screen: http://amzn.to/2eHS0VC

Original concept and Arduino sketch by Adam Welch https://goo.gl/eN85W9

Music: “Robots R Us Remix” by Anders Enger Jensen
https://goo.gl/KEEzoY

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

Continue reading How To Build A Battery Tester

How To Install The Correct Arduino Nano Driver

The Arduino Nano is a fantastic little device that can do a wide variety of things. It is also, like it’s bigger sisters, a target for cheap clones which perform similar range of functions with cheaper parts. While I’m not opposed to this, per se, especially in the education and prototyping spheres, the lack of documentation on these devices can make the initial experience somewhat frustrating. When I first began working with Arduino, I couldn’t–for the life of me–find out how to install the correct Arduino Nano driver for my Mac. The genuine Arduino uses the FTDI USB-to-serial chip which is fairly easy to source and comes with sufficient documentation, but the microcontrollers I bought off eBay use a different chipset to handle the data conversion.

How To Install The Correct Arduino Nano Driver
Location of USB-Serial conversion chip

To install the correct Arduino Nano driver, one must first locate the USB-serial conversion chip. This will be located on the bottom of the device, close to the USB port itself.

The chip will have its designation printed on it. A little white-belt Google Fu will get you to the correct drivers. In this case, it was not the FTDI chip, but the CH340 handling the conversion. This generally works for Windows and even Linux machines, but to compound the issue of using a CH34x chip with a Mac is that there really isn’t an “official” driver for the OS. On Mac, you’re really going to need MPParsley’s driver from GitHub as the drivers from the manufacturer will actually cause a kernel panic on MacOS (you know, Sierra/10.12+). It’s a fairly simple matter of downloading the package file, installing the package, then rebooting.

If, for some reason, you managed to install the wrong drivers on your Mac, the GitHub article also has instructions on how to remove the broken driver. It’s a pretty simple matter of using Terminal to remove the offending entries in the Library folders, much like one would do on a Linux machine.

How To Install Essential Upgrades To Your ROBO 3D Printer

Make your 3D printer into a wireless print server by adding a Raspberry Pi and capture timelapse videos with an on-board webcam. What do you want to see me print next?

How To Install OctoPi http://airbornesurfer.com/2017/06/setup-octopi-raspberry-pi-octoprint/

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Running Scared http://amzn.to/2rq8Nhf
Outlet Saver http://amzn.to/2rqigVK
Right-Angle USB Cable http://amzn.to/2sDdIQl
USB Power Adapter http://amzn.to/2szR7TM
Webcam http://amzn.to/2sDaYCo

THINGIVERSE LINKS:
Cable Loop/Holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:934927
Raspberry Pi Mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205961
Camera Mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2389663
Spool Holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:255229

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. At least one new video per month! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

TRASNCRIPT:

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hey folks Atari here I’ve been playing

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around with this Robo 3d printer for a

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while now

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and I think I’ve got the hang of it

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finally the thing about 3d printing is

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it’s very much a hacker minded hobby

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there’s a lot of trial and error

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involved in the process and most

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consumer grade printers do lack a lot of

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the out-of-the-box features got some of

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the higher-end printers include which

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leads people like me to go ahead and

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build their own upgrades what I’ve done

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here is I’ve installed a Raspberry Pi

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with the octoprint software to make a

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self-contained Wi-Fi printer and then I

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installed a webcam to capture time-lapse

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videos of the print process as well as

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some LED lighting for better video

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capturing and then I’ve you know kind of

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rejiggered the cabling and the filament

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feeds so that they’re going to move a

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little bit better and they don’t be

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caught up in may in the works inside it

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just makes for a whole lot better

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experience so this video is going to

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walk you through the process that I use

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to install these physical upgrades but I

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will have a link in the doobly-doo and

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probably up here in the corner a link to

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a full how-to article about about

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installing and setting up octoprint on

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the Raspberry Pi or octopi as its called

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I will put a link to that I’ll have a

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full write-up on airborne surfer comm so

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you can follow that guide there but

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again this is going to walk through the

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physical installation and with that with

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the write-up on the software that should

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get you through a pretty much down the

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gist of it the first thing I’m going to

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fix is the zip tie loop for the cable

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loom having a zip tie here has been

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holding the Loom a little too rigidly

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and has led to a few failed prints I’ve

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already cut the zip ties since removing

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the hood and now I need to replace the

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mounting point for the zip tire I found

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a suitable two piece cable loop on

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Thingiverse that holds the Loom in

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face while being loose enough to allow

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some play in the tension remove the two

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screws holding the loop mount in place

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then replace it with the base of the

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two-piece print hang on to the second

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piece for later next thing to do is

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install some lighting I picked up the

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self-adhesive USB powered LED strip from

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Amazon and ran it along the interior of

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the hood be sure to start with the USB

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plug on the slide with the cable well

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this is the same side that the loop

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mount is installed now before we put the

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hood back on go ahead and unplug the USB

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cable and the power cable from the

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printer place the hood back onto the

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base of the printer with the cable loop

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on the same side as the well make sure

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all the wiring is tucked inside the hood

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before pressing down to properly align

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the screw holes then screw the hood

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securely in place now gently lift the

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printer and set it on its side make sure

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to hold on to the print cartridge and

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abed as they’re likely to slide around

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to install the Raspberry Pi we’re going

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to need to siphon some electricity from

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the printers power supply specifically

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from the AC input coming from the switch

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on the back of the unit the power supply

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on a robo 3d printer is a tough zombie

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to remove

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there aren’t any screws or anything it’s

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just held in the friction very tightly

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as you can see taking quite a bit of

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effort to remove I found that shifting

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it down at an angle back and forth will

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garner the quickest results but your

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mileage may vary so here are the

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terminals these four go into the Arduino

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board that controls the printer and

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these three are for the AC what dish

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blue brown green and yellow OnLive just

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get get somebody killed

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you see standards exist for a reason

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well they exist for many reasons but one

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of them is safety international standard

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wiring colors are such so that one does

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not accidentally connect the wrong

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conduct to do the wrong terminal or

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worse touch the wrong live conductor

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this is wrong this is it’s good right

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I mean bed at least the goddamn

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terminals are clearly marked anyway

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we’re going to need to tap into these

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leads to direct power to a standard 110

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volt outlet so that we can use an

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off-the-shelf power converter to power

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the Raspberry Pi

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we’ll start by loosening the terminal

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screws and removing the leads I picked

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up this outlet saver at micro Center for

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a couple of dollars essentially it’s a

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10 inch long grounded extension cord

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take a pair of scissors and cut off the

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plug-in then strip away the outer casing

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leaving just the outlet end and the

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exposed inner wiring at least these

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wires are the proper colors so now we

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just need to strip the end of the

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insulation off of each of the wires so

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we can hook them up to the terminal now

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remember kids ground is green like grass

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on the ground white is neutral because

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it’s the neutral color and black is live

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because black lives matter anyway

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so we reinsert the leads from the switch

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into the proper terminal then insert the

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new leads from the extension cord into

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the appropriate terminals as well and

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tighten the retaining screw then simply

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reposition the power supply back inside

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its retainer with a good shove now we’re

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going to need to run a USB cable to

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connect the Arduino to the Raspberry Pi

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and because the Arduino is mounted so

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close to the edge of the base we’re

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going to use this right angle USB cable

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to make the connection now even with the

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low profile of the right angle cable

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though we’re going to need to

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move the Arduino to plug in the cable so

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just remove these three mounting screws

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from the Arduino and carefully plug in

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the USB cable you can use the existing

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wires to hold the new USB cable in place

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just be careful not to pull any of the

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wires from the Arduino screw the Arduino

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back into place and you’re done with

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step 2

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I found the simple mouth for a Raspberry

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Pi on Thingiverse but I also printed if

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you get the hole size right you can use

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screws to mount the pie in place but I’m

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just going to use glue as it’s a little

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easier than drilling out the hole apply

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the glue to the mount and press the

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Raspberry Pi board into place some glue

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should come through the holes in the pie

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and mushroom over to provide a pretty

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good hole clamp some parts together

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until the glue sets apply glue along the

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perimeter of the mouth and press it into

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place on the bottom of the printer make

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sure to hold it tightly against the base

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of the printer until they do the sex

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finally plug the printer into one of the

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USB ports on the pie plug one end of a

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USB to micro USB cable into the power

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port on the Raspberry Pi and the other

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end into a wall wart power converter I

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think this one up at Tashi station for

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about 5 imperial credits just make sure

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it’s rated for at least 5 volts and 1

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ampere plug your power converter into

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your hacked up power outlet from earlier

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and now your pie is powered on by the

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main switch on the printer again you can

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use the existing wiring to hold your new

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wiring in place I picked up a short USB

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extension cable to connect the lighting

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to the PI as well so I just need to

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connect that the last USB connection is

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made for the webcam which will record

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our time-lapse videos for this i’ll

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thread the USB cable from the front of

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the printer through the cable well to

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the underside of the printer and connect

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it to the Raspberry Pi

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before setting the printer up light go

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ahead and insert the cable loom in place

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inside the loop installed earlier and

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enclose it with the locking piece then

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carefully write the printer this is a

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widget that I designed myself and

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Tinkercad and I’ll put a link to it in

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the doobly-do what it does is it clamps

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onto the edge of the print bed and

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allows you to mount a clamp style webcam

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level with the print bed so you can

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capture time-lapse video that stabilize

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to the y-axis stabilizing one axis is

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nice because otherwise motion gets

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really messy and you can’t really see

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much detail in your printing lastly

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we’re going to turn the printer around

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to the back so I can install the new

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spool holder that I printed this is a

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replacement for the stock holder that

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hangs off the side of the hood this one

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keeps the footprint of the printer a

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little smaller and keeps the filament

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closer to the center axis of the printer

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which helps keep the feed steady

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preventing jams and tangles and it just

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grips onto the side of the hood and

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slides down to lock in place

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now if you’ll install these upgrades as

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soon as possible after setting up your

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logo through the printer you’ll find

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that you’re going to get a much better

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and much more consistent quality in your

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prints and you’ll have a lot fewer

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headaches along the way so anyway thanks

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00:10:01,540 –> 00:10:05,320
for watching and if you like this video

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00:10:03,250 –> 00:10:07,690
give it a thumbs up and click that

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00:10:05,320 –> 00:10:10,060
little subscribe button and be sure to

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00:10:07,690 –> 00:10:12,940
share it with your friends and in the

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meantime uh what would you like to see

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me 3d print leave an answer in the

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comments below until next time Tallyho

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y’all

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[Music]

 

How To Install OctoPi (Raspberry Pi OctoPrint)

Having a 3D printer at your disposal is pretty amazing, but it can be a pain when you have to keep the printer tethered to your working computer for hours (or even days) while it runs! I was looking for a simple solution to drive my printer while I used my laptop for other purposes (like going to work during the week) when I came across OctoPrint, an open-source 3D printer web interface for controlling and monitoring the printer from a remote computer. The software essentially creates a running web server for the printer and takes the place of printing suites like MatterControl or Repetier, so it does require running on a machine connected to the printer via USB. If you have an old PC gathering dust, you can easily set it up and have a permanent print station. I, however, don’t have the luxury of a lot of space, so I wanted a more portable option that I could pull out when I needed to use it and easily put away. For this, I chose the Raspberry Pi as it is small enough to easily fit into the printer’s form factor, doesn’t require much electricity to run, and has built-in WiFi compatibility. The OctoPrint software even comes as a complete Linux distro optimized for Raspberry Pi called OctoPi.

Out of the box, OctoPi incorporates the LAMP stack for web hosting, a complete OctoPrint installation (including dependencies) for controlling the 3D printer, the mjpg-streamer package for streaming timelapse videos of the print process, and CuraEngine for slicing. This last item, however, is really moot because of the anemic computing power of the Raspberry Pi. I prefer to slice models on my working computer then transfer over the network to OctoPi for printing.

OctoPi is a pretty simple setup with a lot of really good documentation both at the OctoPrint.org site and their GitHub page. To start, make sure you have Etcher installed and simply download the latest stable version from http://octopi.octoprint.org/download (Be sure to grab the md5 file to verify the download as well!). Unzip the downloaded image and burn it to your SD card using Etcher like you would any other RPi image.

OctoPi network setup
If you don’t know how to manage these settings, you might think twice before diving into 3D Printing. Just a thought.

Open the newly burnt SD card as a removable drive in your computer’s file explorer. In the root folder of the SD card, use a text editor to open octopi-network.txt and edit the file as necessary to match your network configuration. Don’t forget to delete the # at the beginning of the appropriate lines or OctoPi will not connect to the network!

Eject the SD card from your computer, pop it into the Raspberry Pi, run a USB cable from the Pi to the printer, and turn on the Pi by plugging it into a power supply. Give the Pi a minute to boot up, and SSH into it from your main computer. The Pi will be located on the network as octopi.local (or an IP address assigned by the router). As usual, the default username is pi and the default password is raspberry.

Change the password using the passwd command, then close your SSH session.

Open a browser on your main computer and point it to octopi.local (or the assigned IP address). The OctoPrint interface will open with the “First-Run Wizard” and prompt you to set up access controls such as username and password. This is specific to OctoPrint and independent of the username and password used to access the Pi via SSH. If you don’t plan on having your printer exposed to the Internet or having anyone else connecting to your network, you may disable access control. I keep it active just in case, so disable at your own risk!

Reboot OctoPi through the menu at the top right of the screen, and you will be all set to print! If you need more help, check out the README section of the GitHub page or drop a comment below!

How To Add Wireless Charging To Any Device

With just a few off-the-shelf parts, you can add wireless charging to any portable device!

Parts used (AFFILIATE LINKS):
Qi Wireless Charging Receiver: http://amzn.to/2se8NEC
Omoton Case for Moto X Pure: http://amzn.to/2sPUPpi
Choetech Wireless Charger: http://amzn.to/2sdDTw9

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. At least one new video per month! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

“Shaving Mirror” Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

TRANSCRIPT:

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okay so today we’re going to look at a

2
00:00:04,470 –> 00:00:10,110
very simple non hack that you can do

3
00:00:07,680 –> 00:00:14,340
more of more of a pro tip that you can

4
00:00:10,110 –> 00:00:17,940
do to turn a non wirelessly charging

5
00:00:14,340 –> 00:00:19,560
phone into a Qi compliant wireless

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00:00:17,940 –> 00:00:22,289
charging phone that you can use with

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00:00:19,560 –> 00:00:26,310
pretty much anything available market

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00:00:22,289 –> 00:00:31,289
now I have tried this already with a

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piece of trash deal right there and of

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00:00:31,289 –> 00:00:38,430
course it wasn’t she complained so do

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not recommend what you should do you

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should do the smart way and grab

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yourself a party grab this the case in

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00:00:44,910 –> 00:00:49,050
the case of patriotism

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00:00:46,140 –> 00:00:52,079
so I got the helmet on case here and you

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00:00:49,050 –> 00:00:54,870
can see overview of that I’ll put a link

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somewhere as you can see the view of the

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case it’s a good little case that with

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00:00:57,180 –> 00:01:04,100
no cream for a protective mouthpiece

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fishing form and then sort of a harder

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hair

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00:01:07,560 –> 00:01:13,220
so the Carter classic partnership

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it’s nice because it steps look it

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allows the phones except last slide

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expenses which going to be imperative if

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we’re going to get a good connection and

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then I got this wireless charger on

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Amazon for in a couple bucks it’s not a

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big deal decreasing all over the place

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make sure you get one that she compliant

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as most of them are the long time most

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of them so I think this is a super

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simple not not even a real hack so we’ve

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got our little charging pad as you see

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it’s got the key icon air so you do know

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that it is Qi compliant or at least we

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hope that is Qi compliant you know but

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all we got to do is just plug this

39
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little guy here into BA and I’m going to

40
00:02:05,960 –> 00:02:09,950
actually put it I’m actually going to

41
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put the charger down here towards the

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bottom not actually going to Center it

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up on the phone on this particular model

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simply because you’re going to create

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there’s a little bit of thickness here

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with there’s a little circuit board in

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here and of course the antenna that adds

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a little bit of thickness so I’m going

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to stick it down here where the phone

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curves in just so it doesn’t create the

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bulge on the back of the phone that

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would allow that would make the phone

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sit and rock and do all the annoying

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things anyway so then so all we’re going

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00:02:40,970 –> 00:02:48,580
to do is just place that there they’re

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going to that

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[Music]

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over them play nice and or Center down

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there on top slide enter squishy parked

60
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over that have an enforce lift the

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harder outer shot onto a mic back now we

62
00:03:13,060 –> 00:03:21,160
have a Moto X pure a little extra beep –

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00:03:16,330 –> 00:03:24,550
that looks perhaps to it but it is it is

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flat on the back that’s nice it’s kind

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of nice weight – I like I like kind of

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this bp4 debuff that’s throwback to the

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old track very like – mom you know

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pulling up inside your head Zack Morris

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00:03:36,730 –> 00:03:43,060
phone anyway so I liked a little bit of

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00:03:39,520 –> 00:03:44,950
weight there it adds a substantial bit

71
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there and when I’m when I’m traveling

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00:03:44,950 –> 00:03:48,010
when I’ve got this gun mounted it

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00:03:46,120 –> 00:03:50,540
doesn’t shake quite so much just get a

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little more inertia to

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00:03:50,540 –> 00:03:54,890
so that’s that and it really that is

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00:03:52,849 –> 00:03:56,540
that is all there is to it is very

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00:03:54,890 –> 00:03:59,780
simple hack I’ll throw it on the charger

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here so you can see what happens so here

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00:03:59,780 –> 00:04:05,209
we have a G compliant charger that I

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00:04:03,230 –> 00:04:07,909
picked up at IKEA me has this section

81
00:04:05,209 –> 00:04:11,900
from ten bucks on the way over there I

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00:04:07,909 –> 00:04:14,959
don’t really care but it works we got to

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00:04:11,900 –> 00:04:18,650
do is just stick that on there and as

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00:04:14,959 –> 00:04:21,680
you see it’s now charging I mean that’s

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00:04:18,650 –> 00:04:23,270
really all you got to do so if you liked

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the video and I’ll give it a thumbs up

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00:04:23,270 –> 00:04:27,680
share with your friends and of course

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00:04:26,120 –> 00:04:31,610
you know always subscribe that’s pretty

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00:04:27,680 –> 00:04:33,880
cool too and until next time Cali oh

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00:04:31,610 –> 00:04:33,880
yeah

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Oh