Category Archives: Projects

Building a Raspberry Pi Portable Gaming Device (Hack Like Heck: Matthew Eargle – TurtlePi)

If you’re going to build a retro gaming device, why not do it with a little style? The TurtlePi starts with a 1989 Konami Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles LCD handheld with a bad board and replaces the internals using a Raspberry Pi Zero W and Adafruit PiTFT screen to build a TMNT-themed handheld like no other! This video is the grand-prize-winning entry in Element14’s “Hack Like Heck” competition. Special thanks to Element14 and all of my friends, family, and subscribers who supported me in the contest!

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. There’s something new every week! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

Generally, any product links are affiliate links that offer a commission to support this channel at no extra cost to you. Affiliate commissions do not affect advertised prices, but do go to support this channel and affiliated website, AirborneSurfer.com

TRANSCRIPT:

1
00:00:04,549 –> 00:00:09,590
why don’t we have people send in short
audition videos and put them on the Element

2
00:00:09,590 –> 00:00:14,690
14 community saying hey here’s Who I am
here’s what I do and here’s how I would

3
00:00:14,690 –> 00:00:22,359
approach a raspberry pi affordable okay
and the ten best videos that we oh yeah

4
00:00:22,359 –> 00:00:26,900
what are you doing here we were battling
the shredder and old metal face

5
00:00:26,900 –> 00:00:33,019
destroyed my favorite video game ever I
need your help to fix it well why don’t

6
00:00:33,019 –> 00:00:37,370
you get it Donatello to do it nah he’s
busy working on some project for some

7
00:00:37,370 –> 00:00:42,140
Ben Heck guy whoever that is you think
you can look at it oh yeah this is a

8
00:00:42,140 –> 00:00:51,320
crush a I’ll see what I can do so
apparently Raphael is entrusted me with

9
00:00:51,320 –> 00:00:56,629
this vintage 1989 Teenage Mutant Ninja
Turtles handheld game and well it’s kind

10
00:00:56,629 –> 00:01:01,119
of a one-trick pony though it’s a
rudimentary graphics rudimentary sound

11
00:01:01,119 –> 00:01:08,330
rudimentary gameplay but what if we can
take these design cues and upgrade the

12
00:01:08,330 –> 00:01:14,149
internals we’ll say a Raspberry Pi new
screen etc and we can build something

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00:01:14,149 –> 00:01:19,939
that celebrates not only a beloved
franchise but retro gaming in general

14
00:01:19,939 –> 00:01:26,299
much the way that the SNES classic or
the NES classic does so here’s my idea

15
00:01:26,299 –> 00:01:37,670
we take said TMNT game which is very
poor part and should be able to fit a

16
00:01:37,670 –> 00:01:47,030
new TFT screen right here we’ll use the
original buttons if I can get some

17
00:01:47,030 –> 00:01:52,939
replacements we use the original buttons
here we use these function buttons we

18
00:01:52,939 –> 00:01:59,659
put a power switch here for the on/off
button and then we’ll just use some tax

19
00:01:59,659 –> 00:02:05,060
switches up underneath we’ll build a new
control set so the screen and a

20
00:02:05,060 –> 00:02:11,840
Raspberry Pi should just fit right here
may have to take much of this out just

21
00:02:11,840 –> 00:02:17,600
to fit everything in but we should be
able to have plenty of room here since

22
00:02:17,600 –> 00:02:21,439
we’re not
gonna use double A’s I should be able to

23
00:02:21,439 –> 00:02:28,280
get a lipo big lipo battery stick it
right in here and use this room for some

24
00:02:28,280 –> 00:02:37,579
extra eternals so this looks like it’s a
very viable project so let me order some

25
00:02:37,579 –> 00:02:43,340
parts and we will start fitting
everything together and see where it

26
00:02:43,340 –> 00:02:52,280
goes so I think my biggest concern here
is the way that the pie and the screen

27
00:02:52,280 –> 00:02:59,150
are gonna fit together inside the case
now of course it looks like they’re

28
00:02:59,150 –> 00:03:03,290
gonna fit so it should be okay but we’ll
know for certain once we get rid of all

29
00:03:03,290 –> 00:03:07,069
this extra plastic here so I’m gonna
mark off all these areas that we’re

30
00:03:07,069 –> 00:03:14,870
gonna cut and then once I have all that
now it’s time to dremel yes I actually I

31
00:03:14,870 –> 00:03:20,209
was afraid of this so the buttons don’t
fit right the screen and they don’t even

32
00:03:20,209 –> 00:03:24,370
line up right so we’re gonna have to
take those

33
00:03:36,780 –> 00:03:44,350
so here are the buttons that we removed
and of course you got a uh can actually

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00:03:44,350 –> 00:03:47,320
see in here that they just they just
don’t line up right so we’re gonna

35
00:03:47,320 –> 00:03:56,140
actually create a new pad a new
controller to go in here now before we

36
00:03:56,140 –> 00:03:59,020
get building this thing we should
probably at least set up the operating

37
00:03:59,020 –> 00:04:02,830
system on the Raspberry Pi and since
this is a PI based gaming system we’re

38
00:04:02,830 –> 00:04:07,360
gonna use the tried-and-true retro PI so
we’re just gonna jump over to the retro

39
00:04:07,360 –> 00:04:11,620
pie website and grab the image once
that’s finished downloading use an app

40
00:04:11,620 –> 00:04:16,810
like etcher to flash it onto a bootable
SD drive disco now I’ve got to

41
00:04:16,810 –> 00:04:21,520
reconfigure this workstation with the
HDMI monitor the OTG cable and the power

42
00:04:21,520 –> 00:04:27,700
supply in order to set up the Raspberry
Pi for the first boot okay we’ve got a

43
00:04:27,700 –> 00:04:31,780
splash screen this is a good sign so
from here let’s go into the

44
00:04:31,780 –> 00:04:36,330
configuration menu and set up the Wi-Fi

45
00:04:36,630 –> 00:04:42,730
now we need to enable SSH so we’re gonna
go into raspy config then to interface

46
00:04:42,730 –> 00:04:49,150
options SSH and 1/8 now back in the main
retro PI interface I’ll go ahead and

47
00:04:49,150 –> 00:04:53,560
shut down the pi so that I can clear all
the stuff off my workstation now back on

48
00:04:53,560 –> 00:04:58,120
the Mac I’ll just fire around terminal
and ssh into hi now I haven’t changed

49
00:04:58,120 –> 00:05:01,450
the knee of the credentials yet but you
absolutely should do that as soon as

50
00:05:01,450 –> 00:05:08,320
possible now I’m gonna be using a two
fruits 2.2 inch pie TFT hat as the

51
00:05:08,320 –> 00:05:12,730
primary display so I need to enable
support using the script that they were

52
00:05:12,730 –> 00:05:20,320
so good to provide I’ll use option 6 for
the manual configuration and give it a

53
00:05:20,320 –> 00:05:25,990
few minutes for everything to install I
also need to set up a two fruits from

54
00:05:25,990 –> 00:05:29,890
retro game scripts so I can quickly
assign the GPIO breakout pins from the

55
00:05:29,890 –> 00:05:35,330
screen module
we’ll use the hi girls zero settings for

56
00:05:35,330 –> 00:05:42,910
simplicity okay the initial setup is
complete and it’s time to do

57
00:05:44,620 –> 00:05:49,520
okay so I’ve picked up some bakelite
perfboard so I could build a custom

58
00:05:49,520 –> 00:05:54,620
controller without having to roll my own
PCB besides it’s quicker and easier if I

59
00:05:54,620 –> 00:06:00,140
just hand wire everything and I’m gonna
be better able to make adjustments and

60
00:06:00,140 –> 00:06:06,590
changes as necessary if so to start I
just need to lay out my buttons and make

61
00:06:06,590 –> 00:06:10,130
sure I have the correct spacing by using
the front panel of the game then I’ll

62
00:06:10,130 –> 00:06:14,560
press fit my pack switches in the board
and double check the spacing as I go

63
00:06:14,560 –> 00:06:31,600
once everything is lined up right it’s
time to solder

64
00:06:31,600 –> 00:06:35,150
now that all the buttons are soldered
place I’ll go ahead and trim off the

65
00:06:35,150 –> 00:06:39,980
excess bakelite so that the whole board
fits in the case nicely of course this

66
00:06:39,980 –> 00:06:44,090
is why I’m using bakelite instead of
fiberglass because well it’s I can cut

67
00:06:44,090 –> 00:06:47,330
it with scissors I don’t have to get out
the dremel and all the safety equipment

68
00:06:47,330 –> 00:06:51,650
so you know just to make a simple trail
I’m also gonna need to cut out a notch

69
00:06:51,650 –> 00:06:56,690
here to fit this big beefy power button
that I’m gonna install separately now

70
00:06:56,690 –> 00:07:00,490
let’s start working on this screen
assembly

71
00:07:03,590 –> 00:07:09,020
so the PI TFT hat actually comes with a
separate GPIO breakout right here below

72
00:07:09,020 –> 00:07:13,940
the 40 thin connector so that you can
easily attach control wires the cell I’m

73
00:07:13,940 –> 00:07:17,389
going to connect the buttons and I’m
just gonna use a two fruits default

74
00:07:17,389 –> 00:07:25,610
layout for their retro game script to
wire everything for now okay just a

75
00:07:25,610 –> 00:07:29,960
quick orientation check let’s get these
wires soldered to their Horace ponding

76
00:07:29,960 –> 00:07:36,839
buttons

77
00:07:39,690 –> 00:07:47,670
okay now moment of truth it’s time to
solder the pie to the screen module with

78
00:07:47,670 –> 00:07:51,470
all the wires sandwiched in between

79
00:07:57,530 –> 00:08:02,370
now the screen module and the PI are
married I need to ground all these

80
00:08:02,370 –> 00:08:07,560
buttons to a common line so I’ll just
run some ground lines create a couple of

81
00:08:07,560 –> 00:08:13,590
buses and connect all of that to one of
the ground pants on the GPIO now I need

82
00:08:13,590 –> 00:08:18,480
a couple of shoulder buttons and so I’m
going to use these little candy colored

83
00:08:18,480 –> 00:08:24,330
text witches because they’re going to
fit right into the top of these little

84
00:08:24,330 –> 00:08:29,820
shoulders here on the bottom of the case
appropriately enough so I’m going to

85
00:08:29,820 –> 00:08:34,830
need to measure the button cap okay
looks be about 11 millimeters give or

86
00:08:34,830 –> 00:08:45,999
take so now my stepper bit and you get
to chewing through this plastic

87
00:08:56,220 –> 00:09:07,259
looking good so now we need some onboard
audio okay let’s take our USB audio

88
00:09:07,259 –> 00:09:12,120
adapter and and tear off these three and
a half millimeter Jaxx’s we’re not going

89
00:09:12,120 –> 00:09:18,360
to need them instead we’ll just solder
the leads to our speaker directly to the

90
00:09:18,360 –> 00:09:22,920
pads where the headphone jack was it
doesn’t really matter which channel we

91
00:09:22,920 –> 00:09:27,209
use because we’re only going to output
mono sound all these old games did just

92
00:09:27,209 –> 00:09:31,019
fine with mono sound anyway I mean it’s
not like a lot of TVs back in the day

93
00:09:31,019 –> 00:09:36,629
had stereo capabilities anyway
kind of reminds me of the Etta reminds

94
00:09:36,629 –> 00:09:41,730
me of the old game boys you know
dot-matrix with stereo sound but only

95
00:09:41,730 –> 00:09:55,079
one speaker whatever now we should at
least make sure it works now comes the

96
00:09:55,079 –> 00:09:57,660
fun

97
00:09:57,660 –> 00:10:06,810
I need to desolder these wires leading
to the USB plug because well this just

98
00:10:06,810 –> 00:10:11,280
isn’t gonna work
oh yeah and you might want to take note

99
00:10:11,280 –> 00:10:16,590
of where each wire is connected to
logistics anyway with the USB

100
00:10:16,590 –> 00:10:22,530
disconnected I’ll just cut a micro USB
cable that I have lying around and leave

101
00:10:22,530 –> 00:10:28,140
a micro plug and just a few inches worth
of cable strip it down and solder the

102
00:10:28,140 –> 00:10:33,390
individual wires onto the appropriate
pads add a little dab of hot glue to

103
00:10:33,390 –> 00:10:39,840
reinforce the connections and then we’ve
got as a micro USB audio adapter that

104
00:10:39,840 –> 00:10:49,860
should fit just like so now the last
component I have to build before we put

105
00:10:49,860 –> 00:10:53,280
this whole thing together is the power
supply now I’m going to use a two

106
00:10:53,280 –> 00:10:57,810
thousand milliamp power lipo battery to
power the thing with but I’m gonna need

107
00:10:57,810 –> 00:11:02,910
a way to charge it and to distribute
that power so for that I’m gonna use

108
00:11:02,910 –> 00:11:09,720
this a power boost 1000 from Adafruit
it’s actually pretty simple to wire the

109
00:11:09,720 –> 00:11:16,230
battery plugs into this little jack
right here and we just have to run a

110
00:11:16,230 –> 00:11:22,320
couple of wires from these terminals one
goes to a 5 volt pin and the other goes

111
00:11:22,320 –> 00:11:26,490
to the ground pin on the PI I’m also
gonna wire this little clicky button

112
00:11:26,490 –> 00:11:32,820
switch that I have that I’ll use to talk
with power now let’s get these things

113
00:11:32,820 –> 00:11:37,310
soldered up and that’ll be time to put
this bad boy together

114
00:11:39,279 –> 00:11:45,379
so I’ve run into a little bit of a snag
on assembling the speaker that I’m using

115
00:11:45,379 –> 00:11:50,029
is just too big to fit inside the shell
so I’m gonna have to find a smaller

116
00:11:50,029 –> 00:11:55,360
speaker driver to use now fortunately
the fine folks over at Ben Heck show

117
00:11:55,360 –> 00:12:00,500
happened to send me another speaker as
part of the build materials for Ben’s

118
00:12:00,500 –> 00:12:08,149
original bill okay let’s get this bad
boy put together we’re gonna start with

119
00:12:08,149 –> 00:12:14,449
the power boost unit wire that up to the
five volt in and the ground pin on the

120
00:12:14,449 –> 00:12:21,500
Raspberry Pi then we want a route ours
power switch into its appropriate

121
00:12:21,500 –> 00:12:29,209
position all right looking good now we
need to connect the shoulder buttons to

122
00:12:29,209 –> 00:12:34,189
the main controls we’re gonna start by
running ground lines from the ground bus

123
00:12:34,189 –> 00:12:38,029
on the controller out to the shoulder
buttons which I’ve attached to these

124
00:12:38,029 –> 00:12:42,889
small little pieces of perfboard that
I’ve glued into place then we’re going

125
00:12:42,889 –> 00:12:46,689
to connect our signal wires that we
soldered on to the screen module earlier

126
00:12:46,689 –> 00:12:52,100
all right everything’s fitting great now
we just need to add a little hot glue to

127
00:12:52,100 –> 00:12:57,769
hold everything in place and to insulate
our wires okay the last thing we have to

128
00:12:57,769 –> 00:13:02,110
do is Mount our USB audio so we got to
run the cable right around through here

129
00:13:02,110 –> 00:13:07,699
plug it in and cut a little piece of
mounting square we’re gonna tack the

130
00:13:07,699 –> 00:13:15,800
speaker right down on to the battery and
I think we’re actually finished let’s

131
00:13:15,800 –> 00:13:23,430
give it a shot
it works I’ve works it works okay one

132
00:13:23,430 –> 00:13:40,320
more thing I’ve got to do and always got
to sign our work perfect now I just got

133
00:13:40,320 –> 00:13:44,340
to get this back over to Raphael and
we’re good to go okay so the games

134
00:13:44,340 –> 00:13:47,940
intact but I’ve made a few modifications
that I think you’re gonna enjoy let’s

135
00:13:47,940 –> 00:13:57,830
check it out wow this is radical this is
way better than the game I used to play

Pevono PS305 Review, Teardown, and Bench Test

The Pevono PS305 review unit that I was shipped proves to be a well-built and affordable DC bench power supply. From its aluminum construction to its display accuracy, the Pevono PS305 is a great bargain lab power supply! In this video, we’ll teardown the Pevono PS305 power supply and see how it’s constructed as well as bench test it against is published specifications.

PS305 on Amazon: http://amzn.to/2CcmKUF

PS305H (4-digit display): http://amzn.to/2H9pgyK

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📦 You can also support this channel by using my Amazon affiliate link before you shop! http://amzn.to/2vQb2xt

🌐 Get your own domain name and web site for CHEAP with Namecheap! https://goo.gl/ywVr51

Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. There’s something new every week! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe! Generally, any product links are affiliate links that offer a commission to support this channel at no extra cost to you. Affiliate commissions do not affect advertised prices, but do go to support this channel and affiliated website, AirborneSurfer.com

TRANSCRIPT:

1
00:00:00,439 –> 00:00:05,490
Pevono PS305 DC power supply is it
worth it

2
00:00:05,490 –> 00:00:15,590
let’s find out greetings programs Atari
here you there and this is a Pavano PS

3
00:00:15,590 –> 00:00:21,720
305 DC bench power supply now the folks
over Pavano they asked me would I be

4
00:00:21,720 –> 00:00:25,109
willing to do a review of their product
so they sent me one of these is a

5
00:00:25,109 –> 00:00:30,269
demonstration unit that they sent me so
you know so far out of the box it looks

6
00:00:30,269 –> 00:00:35,309
pretty decent a pretty decent build
quality it’s got these nice 7-segment

7
00:00:35,309 –> 00:00:39,540
display on the front and of course
they’re either LED lit so it’s got a

8
00:00:39,540 –> 00:00:44,789
nice look to it got your your voltage
and current adjustment to your course

9
00:00:44,789 –> 00:00:50,489
and it looks fine on this side and then
we’ve got your positive negative and a

10
00:00:50,489 –> 00:00:55,140
chassis crowd so let’s take her apart
and then let’s do it as a bench test and

11
00:00:55,140 –> 00:00:59,699
let’s see what we get so first things
first you have our ceremonial unboxing

12
00:00:59,699 –> 00:01:04,260
here the first thing we see is a pair of
leads here the banana clips and

13
00:01:04,260 –> 00:01:11,490
alligator clips we’ve got our our core
instruction manual but who’s really

14
00:01:11,490 –> 00:01:17,369
gonna read that and then of course the
main event here is my main unit packed

15
00:01:17,369 –> 00:01:21,650
very nicely and some styrene

16
00:01:21,990 –> 00:01:25,590
it’s best ik

17
00:01:27,980 –> 00:01:34,110
right there okay so we have our unit
here we have they’re nice and sturdy

18
00:01:34,110 –> 00:01:39,080
aluminum construction just go ahead and

19
00:01:51,230 –> 00:01:59,220
so start here back we’ve got our power
supply input and it is fused there is a

20
00:01:59,220 –> 00:02:05,130
fuse inside there a nice little switch
between 110 220 uses this

21
00:02:05,130 –> 00:02:11,850
internationally big beefy fan here on
the back our heatsink you know come in

22
00:02:11,850 –> 00:02:18,360
from the power supply back here now the
first thing I notice is that these these

23
00:02:18,360 –> 00:02:25,680
terminals are not insulated that to me
poses a problem just a safety issue I

24
00:02:25,680 –> 00:02:30,780
mean they’re in there nicely but just
don’t like seeing one insulated

25
00:02:30,780 –> 00:02:36,690
terminals on AC input got that and then
there is our chassis ground lead this is

26
00:02:36,690 –> 00:02:45,690
a hard switch directly over here to the
toggle switch on the front again not not

27
00:02:45,690 –> 00:02:49,980
insulated you can see how closely
together those those two toggles comes

28
00:02:49,980 –> 00:02:55,470
just any little bit of horse on there
that later on there and those two are

29
00:02:55,470 –> 00:02:58,650
going to bridge and we’re gonna have
four well I think what I’m going to do

30
00:02:58,650 –> 00:03:03,000
is put a little heat shrink on there and
just insulate these a little bit better

31
00:03:03,000 –> 00:03:09,690
and maybe I’ll do that in a future video
anyway so we’re coming back here here is

32
00:03:09,690 –> 00:03:16,620
the AC side verbal rectified beeping
capacitors up here too

33
00:03:16,620 –> 00:03:25,980
I’m all set transistors trigger on these
nice big heat sinks here so good

34
00:03:25,980 –> 00:03:33,330
looks like we have good heat dissipation
we got it’s actually a very clean board

35
00:03:33,330 –> 00:03:40,739
very nice it doesn’t look like it’s just
slapped – put together here we have the

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00:03:40,739 –> 00:03:47,600
flat board you can see there we’ve got
our the driver for our LED displays a

37
00:03:47,600 –> 00:03:56,250
couple of pop trimmers for the accuracy
there on the display let’s see there’s

38
00:03:56,250 –> 00:04:00,510
our terminals there some good that
everything looks pretty good there it

39
00:04:00,510 –> 00:04:05,910
looks like this is some sort of noise
reduction got a couple of noise

40
00:04:05,910 –> 00:04:10,799
filtering capacitors here looks like
there’s actually a couple of spots for a

41
00:04:10,799 –> 00:04:16,200
couple more passengers but we’ll see
we’ll see what the noise is on these and

42
00:04:16,200 –> 00:04:21,870
maybe we’ll maybe we’ll play with that
another day having a look at the back of

43
00:04:21,870 –> 00:04:28,229
the board here and you can see where
this is the AC section and of course the

44
00:04:28,229 –> 00:04:32,070
rest of the DC section personally I
would like to see a little better

45
00:04:32,070 –> 00:04:36,180
separation here that’s I mean there’s a
good bit of you know there’s a good you

46
00:04:36,180 –> 00:04:41,000
know almost a fingers worth of
separation between the AC and DC sides

47
00:04:41,000 –> 00:04:47,250
but me just being the perfectionist I am
I would rather see some physical

48
00:04:47,250 –> 00:04:52,590
separation maybe a cut out just just to
give you a nice air gap little bit more

49
00:04:52,590 –> 00:04:58,370
safety over there separation there but
but this is not bad this is actually

50
00:04:58,370 –> 00:05:03,960
rather rather good build quality I’m
highly impressed with the quality of

51
00:05:03,960 –> 00:05:09,720
this build and so so far so good
looks like we’re gonna have a pretty

52
00:05:09,720 –> 00:05:13,560
decent little product here now she looks
pretty good on the inside

53
00:05:13,560 –> 00:05:17,760
couple of little things here and there
not anything that’s a deal-breaker and

54
00:05:17,760 –> 00:05:22,080
nothing I can’t fix myself which I’ll
probably do another video so go ahead

55
00:05:22,080 –> 00:05:27,390
and hit the subscribe button so you’ll
be notified when that comes out so now I

56
00:05:27,390 –> 00:05:30,270
guess what we really need to do is test
her

57
00:05:30,270 –> 00:05:36,510
against the specifications but I don’t
really have a proper bench testing setup

58
00:05:36,510 –> 00:05:41,550
right here but I do know a guy so we’re
gonna pack this stuff up we’re gonna run

59
00:05:41,550 –> 00:05:48,810
down the street and we’re gonna give her
a proper rundown

60
00:05:51,430 –> 00:05:55,820
okay so I’m here with our clients 23b
hackerspace here in Fullerton California

61
00:05:55,820 –> 00:06:03,580
I asked him if I could use the the
workbench here to to do a little more

62
00:06:03,580 –> 00:06:09,620
accurate measurements of this thing
little literal bench test if you will so

63
00:06:09,620 –> 00:06:14,240
Arclight show me what you got here yeah
so this is our double Yi electronics

64
00:06:14,240 –> 00:06:18,440
bench here we have a bench top DMM here
that goes to four digits it’s called the

65
00:06:18,440 –> 00:06:26,630
math tech 80 40 we have a rival ds-11 Oh
200 megahertz scope will give you sample

66
00:06:26,630 –> 00:06:30,140
should be pretty adequate for testing
you know power supplies things like that

67
00:06:30,140 –> 00:06:35,690
and of course we have absolutely an we
have already standard tests so we’re

68
00:06:35,690 –> 00:06:41,570
gonna measure some current we want to
see what kind of rip will get me any of

69
00:06:41,570 –> 00:06:46,010
that stuff voltage accuracy no problem
fantastic all right let’s get down to

70
00:06:46,010 –> 00:06:48,290
business
let’s do it the frequency to which you

71
00:06:48,290 –> 00:06:51,170
are to the present time is the one on
which you will normally receive civil

72
00:06:51,170 –> 00:06:54,740
defense information in the event of an
actual emergency okay so our Clyde has

73
00:06:54,740 –> 00:06:59,120
very graciously allowed me to use the
electronic shop here at 23 beta to check

74
00:06:59,120 –> 00:07:02,960
this thing out on the oscilloscope so
let’s hook it up and then and find out

75
00:07:02,960 –> 00:07:13,840
what’s going on here we’re going to look
up our leads here course light black and

76
00:07:13,840 –> 00:07:21,120
red

77
00:07:23,189 –> 00:07:27,149
okay we got our scope all set up and
we’ve got the power supply here it’s

78
00:07:27,149 –> 00:07:34,860
it’s pretty sad already to do 12 volts
so let’s see what it’s got see here a

79
00:07:34,860 –> 00:07:39,419
bit of a ripple going on with the
switching power supply a little bit of

80
00:07:39,419 –> 00:07:43,139
noise on the line there okay so now
let’s try this under load I’ve got it

81
00:07:43,139 –> 00:07:50,339
hooked up with a 10 watt 10 watt
resistor here 24 ohm let’s see see what

82
00:07:50,339 –> 00:07:55,050
we do with the 12 volts here we’re
running about 12 volts a half an amp

83
00:07:55,050 –> 00:08:03,119
here and it’s still got quite a bit of
noise in there even under load one other

84
00:08:03,119 –> 00:08:08,189
thing we really need to look at is the
voltage spike when it comes on it seems

85
00:08:08,189 –> 00:08:13,889
to be kind of seems to be a bit of a
spike when you turn it first on and that

86
00:08:13,889 –> 00:08:17,369
can be a problem with sensitive
electronics things like that so let’s

87
00:08:17,369 –> 00:08:25,739
take a look here and and see if there’s
any bad spike when it happens okay there

88
00:08:25,739 –> 00:08:31,800
we’ve got a nice little spike 20 volt
spike right there or it love this back

89
00:08:31,800 –> 00:08:35,579
off so this could be a problem if you
have sensitive electronics or anything

90
00:08:35,579 –> 00:08:40,370
like that so just something to be wary
of so don’t have your load connected

91
00:08:40,370 –> 00:08:46,050
before you turn it on turn it on and
then connect your load well here at the

92
00:08:46,050 –> 00:08:53,699
shop I might as well check the accuracy
with a much more accurate multimeter

93
00:08:53,699 –> 00:08:59,939
than what I’ve got at home this is a
mass Tek ms 84 T true RMS multimeter

94
00:08:59,939 –> 00:09:05,939
so it’s accurate to like 4 decimal
places something like that so we’re

95
00:09:05,939 –> 00:09:13,439
gonna check it out with this and so
let’s just go ahead and turn her on back

96
00:09:13,439 –> 00:09:20,130
down to stick it down to start it out
about 12 volts okay so we got 12 volts

97
00:09:20,130 –> 00:09:39,540
there and we’ll just check
voltage here still quite 0 and 0.0 0.0 4

98
00:09:39,540 –> 00:09:50,750
9 so fairly accurate – terribly bad ok
let’s take her up to the top end here

99
00:09:50,750 –> 00:10:06,900
toast about 24 volts that’s fairly
common 24 volts a 4.04 volts excellent

100
00:10:06,900 –> 00:10:14,250
so still fairly accurate here take her
all the way up to the top to the tippy

101
00:10:14,250 –> 00:10:24,590
tippy top fans kicking in a little bit
31.9 volts on the screen there 3196 so

102
00:10:24,590 –> 00:10:30,410
even still accurate up at the top
extreme now let’s take her down to the

103
00:10:30,410 –> 00:10:36,870
you’re gonna have the low end
let’s do about 3.3 volts actually let’s

104
00:10:36,870 –> 00:10:42,540
get 5 volts and make sure our five bolts
good working on electronics I’m usually

105
00:10:42,540 –> 00:10:51,120
working with 5 and 3.3 volt
you know logic and so forth so five zero

106
00:10:51,120 –> 00:10:59,250
two nine five zero three right there on
a 5.0 display let’s take it down to

107
00:10:59,250 –> 00:11:04,040
three point three three point three

108
00:11:05,470 –> 00:11:14,060
one three one seven on the RMS and then
she’s taking it all the way down to zero

109
00:11:14,060 –> 00:11:19,009
because the cool thing about this is
that actually does it will read zero or

110
00:11:19,009 –> 00:11:35,480
three and rolling down yeah it’s it’s
right at you know right around zero so a

111
00:11:35,480 –> 00:11:41,949
little linear is this there we go yeah
so we’re right down at zero now so

112
00:11:41,949 –> 00:11:46,249
fairly accurate across the entire
spectrum which is something you

113
00:11:46,249 –> 00:11:58,009
generally don’t see out of these cheapo
Chinese power supplies now I got my ten

114
00:11:58,009 –> 00:12:04,399
watt resistor here let’s let’s put her
under load and let’s see how accurate we

115
00:12:04,399 –> 00:12:09,139
are when we’re under load okay so now
we’re set up so that we can check the

116
00:12:09,139 –> 00:12:13,579
amperage accuracy so I got the whole
thing we got it running out of red and

117
00:12:13,579 –> 00:12:19,279
into a 10 watt resistor over here into
the multimeter and then back out and

118
00:12:19,279 –> 00:12:25,850
back into a negative side so that’s
let’s just take a look here we’ll start

119
00:12:25,850 –> 00:12:32,480
running it up over voltage a little bit
okay so let’s go to 3.3 volts 3.3 volts

120
00:12:32,480 –> 00:12:38,540
and showing one point four amps right
here and one point three point one three

121
00:12:38,540 –> 00:12:43,779
nine there okay I’ll take it up to five

122
00:12:44,319 –> 00:12:52,269
point two 1.20 eighths is still really
super close

123
00:12:54,149 –> 00:13:05,689
fans kicking in take it up to 12 volts
12 volts showing point five one here

124
00:13:05,689 –> 00:13:11,790
0.49 seven here we’ll check the accuracy
which I can make sure that’s within spec

125
00:13:11,790 –> 00:13:21,290
I want to do the math in my head and
let’s just take her right on up

126
00:13:28,569 –> 00:13:35,360
24 volts 1 amp 0.99 for amps so all in
all through the whole range it looks

127
00:13:35,360 –> 00:13:41,569
fairly accurate look pretty darn
accurate here so I’m gonna say that’s

128
00:13:41,569 –> 00:13:53,959
the wind there so all in all not a bad
little product especially for the price

129
00:13:53,959 –> 00:13:57,649
point I’ll stick a link down and
doobly-doo so you can check it out on

130
00:13:57,649 –> 00:14:03,920
Amazon yourself but I definitely would
recommend this for like hobbyist or

131
00:14:03,920 –> 00:14:08,540
guys like me just home gamers just you
know playing around with some

132
00:14:08,540 –> 00:14:13,189
electronics if you need just a good
decent DC power supply bench power

133
00:14:13,189 –> 00:14:17,360
supply just to mess around with you
don’t need anything with too terribly

134
00:14:17,360 –> 00:14:22,129
much precision this is definitely this
is definitely made for for people like

135
00:14:22,129 –> 00:14:27,319
me so if this review helps you out give
us a thumbs up don’t forget to hit the

136
00:14:27,319 –> 00:14:32,449
subscribe button more stuff like this
coming definitely gonna play around on

137
00:14:32,449 –> 00:14:35,839
the interior we’re gonna work with this
thing a little bit and and we might

138
00:14:35,839 –> 00:14:39,439
actually have a we might actually have a
new series coming up with with arc

139
00:14:39,439 –> 00:14:44,749
lighting the guys over at 23 B so stay
tuned for that if you enjoy hacking and

140
00:14:44,749 –> 00:14:48,829
and mess around and play around in the
workshop we’re gonna be we’re gonna be

141
00:14:48,829 –> 00:14:51,230
having a good time so don’t forget to
hit the subscribe button

142
00:14:51,230 –> 00:14:58,660
my name is Atari I will see you guys
next time and until then Tallyho y’all

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Moto X Pure Battery Replacement (Style) / How To Replace Moto X Pure Battery (Style)

Walkthrough Moto X Pure Battery Replacement or how to change battery Moto X Style. The Moto X Pure (Style) Edition has been a solid workhorse of a phone for several years, and with a new battery, it will likely keep going for at least one or two more! In this video, I’ll show you how to replace the battery in a Moto X Pure (Style) Edition smartphone. I appreciate you stopping by, leaving a comment and subscribing for more adventitious geekery! Thanks!

PARTS/TOOLS USED:
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“Self-Healing” Mat: http://amzn.to/2j28GJe
Replacement Battery for Moto X Pure/Style: http://amzn.to/2y1ziwE

Omoton Moto X Pure/Style Case Unbox & Review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFvfrj0nckQ

How To Add Wireless Charging To Any Device: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Op7LggpvKmc

Music by Anders Enger Jensen: http://eox.no

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. There’s something new every week! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

Generally, any product links are affiliate links that offer a commission to support this channel at no extra cost to you. Affiliate commissions do not affect advertised prices, but do go to support this channel and affiliated website, AirborneSurfer.com

Continue reading Moto X Pure Battery Replacement (Style) / How To Replace Moto X Pure Battery (Style)

Are IKEA LADDA Batteries Really Eneloop Pro?

Are IKEA LADDA Batteries Really Eneloop Pro cells? Eneloop Pro cells cost about $20 for a 4-pack, but IKEA has NiMH rechargeable batteries with similar specifications for only $5! Are they the same battery? We’ll dive deep into the history of Sanyo, Panasonic, and Fujitsu to determine where the batteries really come from and if IKEA LADDA is as good a deal as it sounds!

“Summer In Andromeda” by Anders Enger Jensen available via Soundcloud: https://goo.gl/RDyWUC

Don’t have an IKEA nearby? Grab some “Amaloops” from Amazon here: http://amzn.to/2wPQusM (AFFILIATE LINK)

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. There’s something new every week! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

Continue reading Are IKEA LADDA Batteries Really Eneloop Pro?

Also on:

That Moment When Your New Video Reaches The Top Search Result For The First Time

That Moment When Your New Video Reaches The Top Search Result For The First Time

Arduino Nano Battery Tester: Soldering Timelapse

This is a continuation of the previous project video “How To Build A Battery Tester” https://goo.gl/4k612V where we take an Arduino Nano and a few other electronic parts to build a AA battery tester that will give us fairly accurate “real world” readings on NiMH batteries. This little device will come in handy for the next project on the list, so be sure to subscribe for more how-tos!

Do you have some rechargeable batteries lying around that need a capacity check? Let’s put together an Arduino-powered Battery Tester so we can verify the listed capacity of these cells!

Parts and Tools (affiliate links):
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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. At least one new video per month! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

Also on:

Someone Is Photobombing My Video Shoot

Also on:

How To Build A Battery Tester

Do you have some rechargeable batteries lying around that need a capacity check? Today, we’ll take an Arduino Nano and a few other electronic parts to build a AA battery tester that will give us fairly accurate “real world” readings on NiMH batteries. This little device will come in handy for the next project on the list, so be sure to subscribe for more how-tos!

How To Install The Correct Arduino Nano Driver https://goo.gl/zWB4BD

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AA battery holder: http://amzn.to/2eHNEOa
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1R10W Ceramic Resistor: http://amzn.to/2eHKk5H
Arduino Nano (clone): http://amzn.to/2uQAd4Z
1.5R10W Power Resistor: http://amzn.to/2eIieHc
IRF3205 MOSFET: http://amzn.to/2eInMBG
10KR Resistor: http://amzn.to/2uPLjXQ
Nokia 5110 Screen: http://amzn.to/2eHS0VC

Original concept and Arduino sketch by Adam Welch https://goo.gl/eN85W9

Music: “Robots R Us Remix” by Anders Enger Jensen
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Production videos on Mondays (when available)
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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

Continue reading How To Build A Battery Tester

Also on:

How To Install The Correct Arduino Nano Driver

The Arduino Nano is a fantastic little device that can do a wide variety of things. It is also, like it’s bigger sisters, a target for cheap clones which perform similar range of functions with cheaper parts. While I’m not opposed to this, per se, especially in the education and prototyping spheres, the lack of documentation on these devices can make the initial experience somewhat frustrating. When I first began working with Arduino, I couldn’t–for the life of me–find out how to install the correct Arduino Nano driver for my Mac. The genuine Arduino uses the FTDI USB-to-serial chip which is fairly easy to source and comes with sufficient documentation, but the microcontrollers I bought off eBay use a different chipset to handle the data conversion.

How To Install The Correct Arduino Nano Driver
Location of USB-Serial conversion chip

To install the correct Arduino Nano driver, one must first locate the USB-serial conversion chip. This will be located on the bottom of the device, close to the USB port itself.

The chip will have its designation printed on it. A little white-belt Google Fu will get you to the correct drivers. In this case, it was not the FTDI chip, but the CH340 handling the conversion. This generally works for Windows and even Linux machines, but to compound the issue of using a CH34x chip with a Mac is that there really isn’t an “official” driver for the OS. On Mac, you’re really going to need MPParsley’s driver from GitHub as the drivers from the manufacturer will actually cause a kernel panic on MacOS (you know, Sierra/10.12+). It’s a fairly simple matter of downloading the package file, installing the package, then rebooting.

If, for some reason, you managed to install the wrong drivers on your Mac, the GitHub article also has instructions on how to remove the broken driver. It’s a pretty simple matter of using Terminal to remove the offending entries in the Library folders, much like one would do on a Linux machine.

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How To Install Essential Upgrades To Your ROBO 3D Printer

Make your 3D printer into a wireless print server by adding a Raspberry Pi and capture timelapse videos with an on-board webcam. What do you want to see me print next?

How To Install OctoPi http://airbornesurfer.com/2017/06/setup-octopi-raspberry-pi-octoprint/

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TRASNCRIPT:

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hey folks Atari here I’ve been playing

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around with this Robo 3d printer for a

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while now

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and I think I’ve got the hang of it

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finally the thing about 3d printing is

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it’s very much a hacker minded hobby

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there’s a lot of trial and error

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involved in the process and most

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consumer grade printers do lack a lot of

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the out-of-the-box features got some of

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the higher-end printers include which

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leads people like me to go ahead and

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build their own upgrades what I’ve done

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here is I’ve installed a Raspberry Pi

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with the octoprint software to make a

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self-contained Wi-Fi printer and then I

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installed a webcam to capture time-lapse

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videos of the print process as well as

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some LED lighting for better video

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capturing and then I’ve you know kind of

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rejiggered the cabling and the filament

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feeds so that they’re going to move a

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little bit better and they don’t be

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caught up in may in the works inside it

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just makes for a whole lot better

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experience so this video is going to

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walk you through the process that I use

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to install these physical upgrades but I

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will have a link in the doobly-doo and

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probably up here in the corner a link to

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a full how-to article about about

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installing and setting up octoprint on

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the Raspberry Pi or octopi as its called

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I will put a link to that I’ll have a

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full write-up on airborne surfer comm so

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you can follow that guide there but

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again this is going to walk through the

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physical installation and with that with

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the write-up on the software that should

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get you through a pretty much down the

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gist of it the first thing I’m going to

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fix is the zip tie loop for the cable

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loom having a zip tie here has been

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holding the Loom a little too rigidly

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and has led to a few failed prints I’ve

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already cut the zip ties since removing

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the hood and now I need to replace the

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mounting point for the zip tire I found

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a suitable two piece cable loop on

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Thingiverse that holds the Loom in

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face while being loose enough to allow

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some play in the tension remove the two

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screws holding the loop mount in place

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then replace it with the base of the

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two-piece print hang on to the second

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piece for later next thing to do is

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install some lighting I picked up the

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self-adhesive USB powered LED strip from

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Amazon and ran it along the interior of

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the hood be sure to start with the USB

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plug on the slide with the cable well

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this is the same side that the loop

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mount is installed now before we put the

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hood back on go ahead and unplug the USB

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cable and the power cable from the

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printer place the hood back onto the

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base of the printer with the cable loop

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on the same side as the well make sure

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all the wiring is tucked inside the hood

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before pressing down to properly align

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the screw holes then screw the hood

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securely in place now gently lift the

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printer and set it on its side make sure

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to hold on to the print cartridge and

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abed as they’re likely to slide around

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to install the Raspberry Pi we’re going

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to need to siphon some electricity from

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the printers power supply specifically

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from the AC input coming from the switch

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on the back of the unit the power supply

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on a robo 3d printer is a tough zombie

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to remove

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there aren’t any screws or anything it’s

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just held in the friction very tightly

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as you can see taking quite a bit of

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effort to remove I found that shifting

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it down at an angle back and forth will

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garner the quickest results but your

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mileage may vary so here are the

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terminals these four go into the Arduino

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board that controls the printer and

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these three are for the AC what dish

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blue brown green and yellow OnLive just

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get get somebody killed

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you see standards exist for a reason

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well they exist for many reasons but one

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of them is safety international standard

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wiring colors are such so that one does

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not accidentally connect the wrong

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conduct to do the wrong terminal or

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worse touch the wrong live conductor

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this is wrong this is it’s good right

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I mean bed at least the goddamn

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terminals are clearly marked anyway

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we’re going to need to tap into these

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leads to direct power to a standard 110

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volt outlet so that we can use an

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off-the-shelf power converter to power

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the Raspberry Pi

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we’ll start by loosening the terminal

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screws and removing the leads I picked

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up this outlet saver at micro Center for

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a couple of dollars essentially it’s a

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10 inch long grounded extension cord

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take a pair of scissors and cut off the

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plug-in then strip away the outer casing

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leaving just the outlet end and the

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exposed inner wiring at least these

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wires are the proper colors so now we

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just need to strip the end of the

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insulation off of each of the wires so

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we can hook them up to the terminal now

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remember kids ground is green like grass

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on the ground white is neutral because

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it’s the neutral color and black is live

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because black lives matter anyway

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so we reinsert the leads from the switch

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into the proper terminal then insert the

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new leads from the extension cord into

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the appropriate terminals as well and

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tighten the retaining screw then simply

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reposition the power supply back inside

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its retainer with a good shove now we’re

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going to need to run a USB cable to

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connect the Arduino to the Raspberry Pi

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and because the Arduino is mounted so

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close to the edge of the base we’re

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going to use this right angle USB cable

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to make the connection now even with the

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low profile of the right angle cable

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though we’re going to need to

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move the Arduino to plug in the cable so

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just remove these three mounting screws

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from the Arduino and carefully plug in

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the USB cable you can use the existing

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wires to hold the new USB cable in place

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just be careful not to pull any of the

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wires from the Arduino screw the Arduino

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back into place and you’re done with

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step 2

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I found the simple mouth for a Raspberry

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Pi on Thingiverse but I also printed if

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you get the hole size right you can use

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screws to mount the pie in place but I’m

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just going to use glue as it’s a little

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easier than drilling out the hole apply

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the glue to the mount and press the

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Raspberry Pi board into place some glue

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should come through the holes in the pie

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and mushroom over to provide a pretty

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good hole clamp some parts together

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until the glue sets apply glue along the

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perimeter of the mouth and press it into

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place on the bottom of the printer make

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sure to hold it tightly against the base

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of the printer until they do the sex

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finally plug the printer into one of the

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USB ports on the pie plug one end of a

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USB to micro USB cable into the power

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port on the Raspberry Pi and the other

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end into a wall wart power converter I

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think this one up at Tashi station for

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about 5 imperial credits just make sure

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it’s rated for at least 5 volts and 1

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ampere plug your power converter into

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your hacked up power outlet from earlier

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and now your pie is powered on by the

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main switch on the printer again you can

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use the existing wiring to hold your new

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wiring in place I picked up a short USB

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extension cable to connect the lighting

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to the PI as well so I just need to

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connect that the last USB connection is

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made for the webcam which will record

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our time-lapse videos for this i’ll

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thread the USB cable from the front of

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the printer through the cable well to

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the underside of the printer and connect

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it to the Raspberry Pi

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before setting the printer up light go

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ahead and insert the cable loom in place

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inside the loop installed earlier and

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enclose it with the locking piece then

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carefully write the printer this is a

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widget that I designed myself and

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Tinkercad and I’ll put a link to it in

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the doobly-do what it does is it clamps

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onto the edge of the print bed and

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allows you to mount a clamp style webcam

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level with the print bed so you can

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capture time-lapse video that stabilize

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to the y-axis stabilizing one axis is

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nice because otherwise motion gets

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really messy and you can’t really see

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much detail in your printing lastly

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we’re going to turn the printer around

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to the back so I can install the new

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spool holder that I printed this is a

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replacement for the stock holder that

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hangs off the side of the hood this one

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keeps the footprint of the printer a

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little smaller and keeps the filament

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closer to the center axis of the printer

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which helps keep the feed steady

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preventing jams and tangles and it just

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grips onto the side of the hood and

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slides down to lock in place

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now if you’ll install these upgrades as

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soon as possible after setting up your

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logo through the printer you’ll find

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that you’re going to get a much better

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and much more consistent quality in your

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prints and you’ll have a lot fewer

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headaches along the way so anyway thanks

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for watching and if you like this video

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give it a thumbs up and click that

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little subscribe button and be sure to

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share it with your friends and in the

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meantime uh what would you like to see

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me 3d print leave an answer in the

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comments below until next time Tallyho

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y’all

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[Music]

 

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