Last week, professional surfer Tom Dosland fell 40-feet down the front of a wave at Jaws, Maui’s legendary surfing break. See the intensity of it all in the video above.
Sterilising the waves: taking the majesty of nature and turning it into a Disneyland attraction. This is a terrible idea and further indication of what is wrong about the Olympic Games.
Surfing needs the ocean. Without it, it’s just riding waves.
Once upon a time, this was my favourite song and I memorised it as best a preschooler could. At that young age, even though I didn’t get all the words right, I knew that the Boys were name-dropping various surf spots on the southern California coast. Names like “Redondo Beach” and “San Onofre” were exotic, faraway places that might as well have been Kathmandu or Casablanca to an awkward redheaded child living in what was still mostly rural Georgia.
A quarter-century later, I listen to these tunes when they come on and I smile as I’m reminded of those carefree times in my early youth, but even more because those exotic, faraway surf spots are now just down the street.
Maybe I’ll put in a visit to Dakar at some point; it seems like the locals have a better attitude about the sport than many of the bros along the California coast. Then again, when you’re working hard for something as a scrappy underdog, you tend to have a better romance about it!
Here’s a highlight reel I put together for the 2011 USOS here in Huntington Beach. Kelly Slater took the men’s championship for the 10th time in his career.