Category Archives: Technology

Moto X Pure Battery Replacement (Style) / How To Replace Moto X Pure Battery (Style)

Walkthrough Moto X Pure Battery Replacement or how to change battery Moto X Style. The Moto X Pure (Style) Edition has been a solid workhorse of a phone for several years, and with a new battery, it will likely keep going for at least one or two more! In this video, I’ll show you how to replace the battery in a Moto X Pure (Style) Edition smartphone. I appreciate you stopping by, leaving a comment and subscribing for more adventitious geekery! Thanks!

PARTS/TOOLS USED:
“Warranty Voiders”: http://amzn.to/2e7Ljui
iFixit 64 Bit Driver Kit: http://amzn.to/2y0Xmjf
“Self-Healing” Mat: http://amzn.to/2j28GJe
Replacement Battery for Moto X Pure/Style: http://amzn.to/2y1ziwE

Omoton Moto X Pure/Style Case Unbox & Review: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFvfrj0nckQ

How To Add Wireless Charging To Any Device: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Op7LggpvKmc

Music by Anders Enger Jensen: http://eox.no

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PRODUCTION GEAR:
“A” Camera: Canon EOS 6D http://amzn.to/2y9Tmzm
“B” Camera: Canon EOS T3 http://amzn.to/2xsZuzf
Takstar SGC-598 Microphone http://amzn.to/2kz3r4n
Azden 310LT Wireless Lavalier Microphone http://amzn.to/2xqLHhw
Safstar Softbox Lighting Kit http://amzn.to/2yzjyVD
DGK Color Grading/White Balance Calibration Card http://amzn.to/2kzm7Rl
Parrot Teleprompter http://amzn.to/2xsMrxG
Zoom H1 Audio Recorder http://amzn.to/2xqLqLz
Selens LED Panel Camera Light http://amzn.to/2yzpaiP
Apple MacBook Pro http://amzn.to/2gmmVVp
Edited with Final Cut Pro https://goo.gl/GL8QFc

Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. There’s something new every week! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

Generally, any product links are affiliate links that offer a commission to support this channel at no extra cost to you. Affiliate commissions do not affect advertised prices, but do go to support this channel and affiliated website, AirborneSurfer.com

Continue reading Moto X Pure Battery Replacement (Style) / How To Replace Moto X Pure Battery (Style)

Are IKEA LADDA Batteries Really Eneloop Pro?

Are IKEA LADDA Batteries Really Eneloop Pro cells? Eneloop Pro cells cost about $20 for a 4-pack, but IKEA has NiMH rechargeable batteries with similar specifications for only $5! Are they the same battery? We’ll dive deep into the history of Sanyo, Panasonic, and Fujitsu to determine where the batteries really come from and if IKEA LADDA is as good a deal as it sounds!

“Summer In Andromeda” by Anders Enger Jensen available via Soundcloud: https://goo.gl/RDyWUC

Don’t have an IKEA nearby? Grab some “Amaloops” from Amazon here: http://amzn.to/2wPQusM (AFFILIATE LINK)

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. There’s something new every week! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

Continue reading Are IKEA LADDA Batteries Really Eneloop Pro?

Arduino Nano Battery Tester: Soldering Timelapse

This is a continuation of the previous project video “How To Build A Battery Tester” https://goo.gl/4k612V where we take an Arduino Nano and a few other electronic parts to build a AA battery tester that will give us fairly accurate “real world” readings on NiMH batteries. This little device will come in handy for the next project on the list, so be sure to subscribe for more how-tos!

Do you have some rechargeable batteries lying around that need a capacity check? Let’s put together an Arduino-powered Battery Tester so we can verify the listed capacity of these cells!

Parts and Tools (affiliate links):
Helping hands: http://amzn.to/2vkDUyY
Soldering iron/station: http://amzn.to/2vkzqbH
Lead-free solder: http://amzn.to/2fuuawR
16 AWG Speaker wire: http://amzn.to/2vniSyh
AA battery holder: http://amzn.to/2eHNEOa
Terminal blocks: http://amzn.to/2uq1IRD
1R10W Ceramic Resistor: http://amzn.to/2eHKk5H
Arduino Nano (clone): http://amzn.to/2uQAd4Z
1.5R10W Power Resistor: http://amzn.to/2eIieHc
IRF3205 MOSFET: http://amzn.to/2eInMBG
10KR Resistor: http://amzn.to/2uPLjXQ
Nokia 5110 Screen: http://amzn.to/2eHS0VC

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. At least one new video per month! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

How To Build A Battery Tester

Do you have some rechargeable batteries lying around that need a capacity check? Today, we’ll take an Arduino Nano and a few other electronic parts to build a AA battery tester that will give us fairly accurate “real world” readings on NiMH batteries. This little device will come in handy for the next project on the list, so be sure to subscribe for more how-tos!

How To Install The Correct Arduino Nano Driver https://goo.gl/zWB4BD

Parts List (Affiliate links):
Breadboard & jumpers: http://amzn.to/2uq6KNW
AA battery holder: http://amzn.to/2eHNEOa
Terminal blocks: http://amzn.to/2uq1IRD
1R10W Ceramic Resistor: http://amzn.to/2eHKk5H
Arduino Nano (clone): http://amzn.to/2uQAd4Z
1.5R10W Power Resistor: http://amzn.to/2eIieHc
IRF3205 MOSFET: http://amzn.to/2eInMBG
10KR Resistor: http://amzn.to/2uPLjXQ
Nokia 5110 Screen: http://amzn.to/2eHS0VC

Original concept and Arduino sketch by Adam Welch https://goo.gl/eN85W9

Music: “Robots R Us Remix” by Anders Enger Jensen
https://goo.gl/KEEzoY

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https://goo.gl/j3ATwZ

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http://airbornesurfer.com

Production videos on Mondays (when available)
Freeway Forum replays every Wednesday

Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

Continue reading How To Build A Battery Tester

How To Install The Correct Arduino Nano Driver

The Arduino Nano is a fantastic little device that can do a wide variety of things. It is also, like it’s bigger sisters, a target for cheap clones which perform similar range of functions with cheaper parts. While I’m not opposed to this, per se, especially in the education and prototyping spheres, the lack of documentation on these devices can make the initial experience somewhat frustrating. When I first began working with Arduino, I couldn’t–for the life of me–find out how to install the correct Arduino Nano driver for my Mac. The genuine Arduino uses the FTDI USB-to-serial chip which is fairly easy to source and comes with sufficient documentation, but the microcontrollers I bought off eBay use a different chipset to handle the data conversion.

How To Install The Correct Arduino Nano Driver
Location of USB-Serial conversion chip

To install the correct Arduino Nano driver, one must first locate the USB-serial conversion chip. This will be located on the bottom of the device, close to the USB port itself.

The chip will have its designation printed on it. A little white-belt Google Fu will get you to the correct drivers. In this case, it was not the FTDI chip, but the CH340 handling the conversion. This generally works for Windows and even Linux machines, but to compound the issue of using a CH34x chip with a Mac is that there really isn’t an “official” driver for the OS. On Mac, you’re really going to need MPParsley’s driver from GitHub as the drivers from the manufacturer will actually cause a kernel panic on MacOS (you know, Sierra/10.12+). It’s a fairly simple matter of downloading the package file, installing the package, then rebooting.

If, for some reason, you managed to install the wrong drivers on your Mac, the GitHub article also has instructions on how to remove the broken driver. It’s a pretty simple matter of using Terminal to remove the offending entries in the Library folders, much like one would do on a Linux machine.

ROBO 3D Printer Bed Camera Mount

This is a simple friction-fit mount for a clamp-style (Logitech C270 or similar) webcam. The mount fits onto the edge of the glass bed and stabilizes timelapse recordings to the Y-axis for clarity.

I featured this printed component as part of my “Essential Upgrades” video.

Source: ROBO 3D Printer Bed Camera Mount by AirborneSurfer – Thingiverse

How To Install Essential Upgrades To Your ROBO 3D Printer

Make your 3D printer into a wireless print server by adding a Raspberry Pi and capture timelapse videos with an on-board webcam. What do you want to see me print next?

How To Install OctoPi http://airbornesurfer.com/2017/06/setup-octopi-raspberry-pi-octoprint/

AFFILIATE LINKS:
LED Lighting http://amzn.to/2rBwaZs
The Simpsons http://amzn.to/2sIXSTX
The Lord of the Rings http://amzn.to/2tcMk8w
Jurassic Park http://amzn.to/2sJ5t4w
Running Scared http://amzn.to/2rq8Nhf
Outlet Saver http://amzn.to/2rqigVK
Right-Angle USB Cable http://amzn.to/2sDdIQl
USB Power Adapter http://amzn.to/2szR7TM
Webcam http://amzn.to/2sDaYCo

THINGIVERSE LINKS:
Cable Loop/Holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:934927
Raspberry Pi Mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205961
Camera Mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2389663
Spool Holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:255229

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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. At least one new video per month! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!

TRASNCRIPT:

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hey folks Atari here I’ve been playing

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around with this Robo 3d printer for a

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while now

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and I think I’ve got the hang of it

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finally the thing about 3d printing is

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it’s very much a hacker minded hobby

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there’s a lot of trial and error

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involved in the process and most

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consumer grade printers do lack a lot of

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the out-of-the-box features got some of

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the higher-end printers include which

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leads people like me to go ahead and

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build their own upgrades what I’ve done

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here is I’ve installed a Raspberry Pi

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with the octoprint software to make a

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self-contained Wi-Fi printer and then I

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installed a webcam to capture time-lapse

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videos of the print process as well as

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some LED lighting for better video

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capturing and then I’ve you know kind of

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rejiggered the cabling and the filament

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feeds so that they’re going to move a

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little bit better and they don’t be

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caught up in may in the works inside it

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just makes for a whole lot better

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experience so this video is going to

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walk you through the process that I use

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to install these physical upgrades but I

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will have a link in the doobly-doo and

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probably up here in the corner a link to

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a full how-to article about about

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installing and setting up octoprint on

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the Raspberry Pi or octopi as its called

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I will put a link to that I’ll have a

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full write-up on airborne surfer comm so

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you can follow that guide there but

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again this is going to walk through the

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physical installation and with that with

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the write-up on the software that should

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get you through a pretty much down the

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gist of it the first thing I’m going to

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fix is the zip tie loop for the cable

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loom having a zip tie here has been

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holding the Loom a little too rigidly

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and has led to a few failed prints I’ve

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already cut the zip ties since removing

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the hood and now I need to replace the

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mounting point for the zip tire I found

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a suitable two piece cable loop on

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Thingiverse that holds the Loom in

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face while being loose enough to allow

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some play in the tension remove the two

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screws holding the loop mount in place

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then replace it with the base of the

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two-piece print hang on to the second

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piece for later next thing to do is

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install some lighting I picked up the

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self-adhesive USB powered LED strip from

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Amazon and ran it along the interior of

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the hood be sure to start with the USB

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plug on the slide with the cable well

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this is the same side that the loop

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mount is installed now before we put the

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hood back on go ahead and unplug the USB

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cable and the power cable from the

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printer place the hood back onto the

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base of the printer with the cable loop

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on the same side as the well make sure

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all the wiring is tucked inside the hood

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before pressing down to properly align

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the screw holes then screw the hood

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securely in place now gently lift the

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printer and set it on its side make sure

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to hold on to the print cartridge and

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abed as they’re likely to slide around

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to install the Raspberry Pi we’re going

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to need to siphon some electricity from

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the printers power supply specifically

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from the AC input coming from the switch

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on the back of the unit the power supply

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on a robo 3d printer is a tough zombie

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to remove

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there aren’t any screws or anything it’s

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just held in the friction very tightly

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as you can see taking quite a bit of

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effort to remove I found that shifting

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it down at an angle back and forth will

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garner the quickest results but your

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mileage may vary so here are the

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terminals these four go into the Arduino

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board that controls the printer and

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these three are for the AC what dish

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blue brown green and yellow OnLive just

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get get somebody killed

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you see standards exist for a reason

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well they exist for many reasons but one

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of them is safety international standard

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wiring colors are such so that one does

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not accidentally connect the wrong

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conduct to do the wrong terminal or

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worse touch the wrong live conductor

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this is wrong this is it’s good right

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I mean bed at least the goddamn

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terminals are clearly marked anyway

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we’re going to need to tap into these

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leads to direct power to a standard 110

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volt outlet so that we can use an

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off-the-shelf power converter to power

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the Raspberry Pi

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we’ll start by loosening the terminal

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screws and removing the leads I picked

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up this outlet saver at micro Center for

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a couple of dollars essentially it’s a

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10 inch long grounded extension cord

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take a pair of scissors and cut off the

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plug-in then strip away the outer casing

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leaving just the outlet end and the

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exposed inner wiring at least these

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wires are the proper colors so now we

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just need to strip the end of the

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insulation off of each of the wires so

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we can hook them up to the terminal now

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remember kids ground is green like grass

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on the ground white is neutral because

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it’s the neutral color and black is live

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because black lives matter anyway

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so we reinsert the leads from the switch

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into the proper terminal then insert the

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new leads from the extension cord into

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the appropriate terminals as well and

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tighten the retaining screw then simply

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reposition the power supply back inside

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its retainer with a good shove now we’re

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going to need to run a USB cable to

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connect the Arduino to the Raspberry Pi

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and because the Arduino is mounted so

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close to the edge of the base we’re

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going to use this right angle USB cable

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to make the connection now even with the

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low profile of the right angle cable

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though we’re going to need to

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move the Arduino to plug in the cable so

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just remove these three mounting screws

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from the Arduino and carefully plug in

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the USB cable you can use the existing

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wires to hold the new USB cable in place

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just be careful not to pull any of the

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wires from the Arduino screw the Arduino

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back into place and you’re done with

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step 2

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I found the simple mouth for a Raspberry

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Pi on Thingiverse but I also printed if

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you get the hole size right you can use

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screws to mount the pie in place but I’m

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just going to use glue as it’s a little

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easier than drilling out the hole apply

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the glue to the mount and press the

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Raspberry Pi board into place some glue

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should come through the holes in the pie

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and mushroom over to provide a pretty

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good hole clamp some parts together

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until the glue sets apply glue along the

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perimeter of the mouth and press it into

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place on the bottom of the printer make

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sure to hold it tightly against the base

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of the printer until they do the sex

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finally plug the printer into one of the

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USB ports on the pie plug one end of a

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USB to micro USB cable into the power

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port on the Raspberry Pi and the other

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end into a wall wart power converter I

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think this one up at Tashi station for

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about 5 imperial credits just make sure

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it’s rated for at least 5 volts and 1

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ampere plug your power converter into

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your hacked up power outlet from earlier

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and now your pie is powered on by the

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main switch on the printer again you can

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use the existing wiring to hold your new

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wiring in place I picked up a short USB

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extension cable to connect the lighting

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to the PI as well so I just need to

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connect that the last USB connection is

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made for the webcam which will record

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our time-lapse videos for this i’ll

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thread the USB cable from the front of

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the printer through the cable well to

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the underside of the printer and connect

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it to the Raspberry Pi

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before setting the printer up light go

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ahead and insert the cable loom in place

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inside the loop installed earlier and

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enclose it with the locking piece then

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carefully write the printer this is a

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widget that I designed myself and

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Tinkercad and I’ll put a link to it in

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the doobly-do what it does is it clamps

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onto the edge of the print bed and

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allows you to mount a clamp style webcam

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level with the print bed so you can

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capture time-lapse video that stabilize

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to the y-axis stabilizing one axis is

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nice because otherwise motion gets

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really messy and you can’t really see

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much detail in your printing lastly

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we’re going to turn the printer around

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to the back so I can install the new

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spool holder that I printed this is a

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replacement for the stock holder that

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hangs off the side of the hood this one

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keeps the footprint of the printer a

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little smaller and keeps the filament

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closer to the center axis of the printer

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which helps keep the feed steady

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preventing jams and tangles and it just

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grips onto the side of the hood and

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slides down to lock in place

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now if you’ll install these upgrades as

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soon as possible after setting up your

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logo through the printer you’ll find

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that you’re going to get a much better

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and much more consistent quality in your

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prints and you’ll have a lot fewer

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headaches along the way so anyway thanks

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for watching and if you like this video

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00:10:03,250 –> 00:10:07,690
give it a thumbs up and click that

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00:10:05,320 –> 00:10:10,060
little subscribe button and be sure to

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share it with your friends and in the

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meantime uh what would you like to see

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me 3d print leave an answer in the

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comments below until next time Tallyho

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y’all

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[Music]