Project: Serling is an electronic reproduction of the “Mystic Seer” prop from the Twilight Zone episode “Nick of Time”. In the show, William Shatner’s character becomes obsessed with the seemingly correct predictions of a coin-operated fortune teller machine. The version being built for element14 Presents is a Raspberry Pi-powered device that uses a thermal printer to deliver randomly-selected answers to yes or no questions.
Watch the full video at element14!
Project: Serling is an electronic reproduction of the “Mystic Seer” prop from the Twilight Zone episode “Nick of Time”. In the show, William Shatner’s character becomes obsessed with the seemingly correct predictions of a coin-operated fortune teller machine. The version being built for element14 Presents is a Raspberry Pi-powered device that uses a thermal printer to deliver randomly-selected answers to yes or no questions.
Watch the full video at element14!
See more on Project Serling here
Whether you call them “blinkies”, “throwies”, “sparklers”, or anything else, LED art is an interesting nexus of street art and hacker culture.
Connect with Matt on element14 and find the B.O.M at: http://bit.ly/2C2dhEt
Events such as DEFCON even have exhibitions for the most creative blinky designs while maker storefronts sell them in every conceivable shape. In this video, Matt collaborates with his friends at the National Upcycled Computing Collective to build a solar-powered “smart” blinky that not only looks cool at night, but contributes its computing power to a worldwide network that’s looking for disease cures, extraterrestrial intelligence, rogue asteroids, and more!
The Berkley Open Infrastructure for Network Computing (BOINC) allows citizens to donate their spare computing power to help scientific research. In this element14 Presents project inspired by the 2007 Boston Mooninite Panic, we’re going to build a basic electronics hacker project: an LED blinky that not only makes cool designs, but also contributes computing power to BOINC by means of a solar-powered Raspberry Pi!
Watch the full video at element14 Presents: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCRSz…
Music: “Starlight (beta)” by Anders Enger Jensen, used with permission.
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PRODUCTION GEAR:
“A” Camera: Canon EOS 6D http://amzn.to/2y9Tmzm
“B” Camera: Canon EOS T3 http://amzn.to/2xsZuzf
Takstar SGC-598 Microphone http://amzn.to/2kz3r4n
Azden 310LT Wireless Lavalier Microphone http://amzn.to/2xqLHhw
Safstar Softbox Lighting Kit http://amzn.to/2yzjyVD
DGK Color Grading/White Balance Calibration Card http://amzn.to/2kzm7Rl
Parrot Teleprompter http://amzn.to/2xsMrxG
Zoom H1 Audio Recorder http://amzn.to/2xqLqLz
Selens LED Panel Camera Light http://amzn.to/2yzpaiP
Apple MacBook Pro http://amzn.to/2gmmVVp
Edited with Final Cut Pro https://goo.gl/GL8QFc
Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. There’s something new every week! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!
Generally, any product links are affiliate links that offer a commission to support this channel at no extra cost to you. Affiliate commissions do not affect advertised prices, but do go to support this channel and affiliated website, AirborneSurfer.com
If you’re going to build a retro gaming device, why not do it with a little style? The TurtlePi starts with a 1989 Konami Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles LCD handheld with a bad board and replaces the internals using a Raspberry Pi Zero W and Adafruit PiTFT screen to build a TMNT-themed handheld like no other! This video is the grand-prize-winning entry in Element14’s “Hack Like Heck” competition. Special thanks to Element14 and all of my friends, family, and subscribers who supported me in the contest!
Music by Anders Enger Jensen, available at http://eox.no
🏄♂️ If you enjoy watching these videos and would like to see them more often, please consider becoming a patron https://www.patreon.com/airbornesurfer
☕️ You can also support AirborneSurfer with a one-time donation at https://ko-fi.com/airbornesurfer
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📽 Production videos Mon @ 9am Pacific (when available)
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🚗 Freeway Forum Replays Sun @ 9am Pacific (every week)
🛎 Be sure to subscribe! https://goo.gl/j3ATwZ
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📷 Pictures of my socks https://goo.gl/KaLBkM
🏄 Behind the scenes https://goo.gl/vsRCC5
🖥 Everything else is at http://airbornesurfer.com
PRODUCTION GEAR:
“A” Camera: Canon EOS 6D http://amzn.to/2y9Tmzm
“B” Camera: Canon EOS T3 http://amzn.to/2xsZuzf
Takstar SGC-598 Microphone http://amzn.to/2kz3r4n
Azden 310LT Wireless Lavalier Microphone http://amzn.to/2xqLHhw
Safstar Softbox Lighting Kit http://amzn.to/2yzjyVD
DGK Color Grading/White Balance Calibration Card http://amzn.to/2kzm7Rl
Parrot Teleprompter http://amzn.to/2xsMrxG
Zoom H1 Audio Recorder http://amzn.to/2xqLqLz
Selens LED Panel Camera Light http://amzn.to/2yzpaiP
Apple MacBook Pro http://amzn.to/2gmmVVp
Edited with Final Cut Pro https://goo.gl/GL8QFc
Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. There’s something new every week! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!
Generally, any product links are affiliate links that offer a commission to support this channel at no extra cost to you. Affiliate commissions do not affect advertised prices, but do go to support this channel and affiliated website, AirborneSurfer.com
TRANSCRIPT:
1
00:00:04,549 –> 00:00:09,590
why don’t we have people send in short
audition videos and put them on the Element
2
00:00:09,590 –> 00:00:14,690
14 community saying hey here’s Who I am
here’s what I do and here’s how I would
3
00:00:14,690 –> 00:00:22,359
approach a raspberry pi affordable okay
and the ten best videos that we oh yeah
4
00:00:22,359 –> 00:00:26,900
what are you doing here we were battling
the shredder and old metal face
5
00:00:26,900 –> 00:00:33,019
destroyed my favorite video game ever I
need your help to fix it well why don’t
6
00:00:33,019 –> 00:00:37,370
you get it Donatello to do it nah he’s
busy working on some project for some
7
00:00:37,370 –> 00:00:42,140
Ben Heck guy whoever that is you think
you can look at it oh yeah this is a
8
00:00:42,140 –> 00:00:51,320
crush a I’ll see what I can do so
apparently Raphael is entrusted me with
9
00:00:51,320 –> 00:00:56,629
this vintage 1989 Teenage Mutant Ninja
Turtles handheld game and well it’s kind
10
00:00:56,629 –> 00:01:01,119
of a one-trick pony though it’s a
rudimentary graphics rudimentary sound
11
00:01:01,119 –> 00:01:08,330
rudimentary gameplay but what if we can
take these design cues and upgrade the
12
00:01:08,330 –> 00:01:14,149
internals we’ll say a Raspberry Pi new
screen etc and we can build something
13
00:01:14,149 –> 00:01:19,939
that celebrates not only a beloved
franchise but retro gaming in general
14
00:01:19,939 –> 00:01:26,299
much the way that the SNES classic or
the NES classic does so here’s my idea
15
00:01:26,299 –> 00:01:37,670
we take said TMNT game which is very
poor part and should be able to fit a
16
00:01:37,670 –> 00:01:47,030
new TFT screen right here we’ll use the
original buttons if I can get some
17
00:01:47,030 –> 00:01:52,939
replacements we use the original buttons
here we use these function buttons we
18
00:01:52,939 –> 00:01:59,659
put a power switch here for the on/off
button and then we’ll just use some tax
19
00:01:59,659 –> 00:02:05,060
switches up underneath we’ll build a new
control set so the screen and a
20
00:02:05,060 –> 00:02:11,840
Raspberry Pi should just fit right here
may have to take much of this out just
21
00:02:11,840 –> 00:02:17,600
to fit everything in but we should be
able to have plenty of room here since
22
00:02:17,600 –> 00:02:21,439
we’re not
gonna use double A’s I should be able to
23
00:02:21,439 –> 00:02:28,280
get a lipo big lipo battery stick it
right in here and use this room for some
24
00:02:28,280 –> 00:02:37,579
extra eternals so this looks like it’s a
very viable project so let me order some
25
00:02:37,579 –> 00:02:43,340
parts and we will start fitting
everything together and see where it
26
00:02:43,340 –> 00:02:52,280
goes so I think my biggest concern here
is the way that the pie and the screen
27
00:02:52,280 –> 00:02:59,150
are gonna fit together inside the case
now of course it looks like they’re
28
00:02:59,150 –> 00:03:03,290
gonna fit so it should be okay but we’ll
know for certain once we get rid of all
29
00:03:03,290 –> 00:03:07,069
this extra plastic here so I’m gonna
mark off all these areas that we’re
30
00:03:07,069 –> 00:03:14,870
gonna cut and then once I have all that
now it’s time to dremel yes I actually I
31
00:03:14,870 –> 00:03:20,209
was afraid of this so the buttons don’t
fit right the screen and they don’t even
32
00:03:20,209 –> 00:03:24,370
line up right so we’re gonna have to
take those
33
00:03:36,780 –> 00:03:44,350
so here are the buttons that we removed
and of course you got a uh can actually
34
00:03:44,350 –> 00:03:47,320
see in here that they just they just
don’t line up right so we’re gonna
35
00:03:47,320 –> 00:03:56,140
actually create a new pad a new
controller to go in here now before we
36
00:03:56,140 –> 00:03:59,020
get building this thing we should
probably at least set up the operating
37
00:03:59,020 –> 00:04:02,830
system on the Raspberry Pi and since
this is a PI based gaming system we’re
38
00:04:02,830 –> 00:04:07,360
gonna use the tried-and-true retro PI so
we’re just gonna jump over to the retro
39
00:04:07,360 –> 00:04:11,620
pie website and grab the image once
that’s finished downloading use an app
40
00:04:11,620 –> 00:04:16,810
like etcher to flash it onto a bootable
SD drive disco now I’ve got to
41
00:04:16,810 –> 00:04:21,520
reconfigure this workstation with the
HDMI monitor the OTG cable and the power
42
00:04:21,520 –> 00:04:27,700
supply in order to set up the Raspberry
Pi for the first boot okay we’ve got a
43
00:04:27,700 –> 00:04:31,780
splash screen this is a good sign so
from here let’s go into the
44
00:04:31,780 –> 00:04:36,330
configuration menu and set up the Wi-Fi
45
00:04:36,630 –> 00:04:42,730
now we need to enable SSH so we’re gonna
go into raspy config then to interface
46
00:04:42,730 –> 00:04:49,150
options SSH and 1/8 now back in the main
retro PI interface I’ll go ahead and
47
00:04:49,150 –> 00:04:53,560
shut down the pi so that I can clear all
the stuff off my workstation now back on
48
00:04:53,560 –> 00:04:58,120
the Mac I’ll just fire around terminal
and ssh into hi now I haven’t changed
49
00:04:58,120 –> 00:05:01,450
the knee of the credentials yet but you
absolutely should do that as soon as
50
00:05:01,450 –> 00:05:08,320
possible now I’m gonna be using a two
fruits 2.2 inch pie TFT hat as the
51
00:05:08,320 –> 00:05:12,730
primary display so I need to enable
support using the script that they were
52
00:05:12,730 –> 00:05:20,320
so good to provide I’ll use option 6 for
the manual configuration and give it a
53
00:05:20,320 –> 00:05:25,990
few minutes for everything to install I
also need to set up a two fruits from
54
00:05:25,990 –> 00:05:29,890
retro game scripts so I can quickly
assign the GPIO breakout pins from the
55
00:05:29,890 –> 00:05:35,330
screen module
we’ll use the hi girls zero settings for
56
00:05:35,330 –> 00:05:42,910
simplicity okay the initial setup is
complete and it’s time to do
57
00:05:44,620 –> 00:05:49,520
okay so I’ve picked up some bakelite
perfboard so I could build a custom
58
00:05:49,520 –> 00:05:54,620
controller without having to roll my own
PCB besides it’s quicker and easier if I
59
00:05:54,620 –> 00:06:00,140
just hand wire everything and I’m gonna
be better able to make adjustments and
60
00:06:00,140 –> 00:06:06,590
changes as necessary if so to start I
just need to lay out my buttons and make
61
00:06:06,590 –> 00:06:10,130
sure I have the correct spacing by using
the front panel of the game then I’ll
62
00:06:10,130 –> 00:06:14,560
press fit my pack switches in the board
and double check the spacing as I go
63
00:06:14,560 –> 00:06:31,600
once everything is lined up right it’s
time to solder
64
00:06:31,600 –> 00:06:35,150
now that all the buttons are soldered
place I’ll go ahead and trim off the
65
00:06:35,150 –> 00:06:39,980
excess bakelite so that the whole board
fits in the case nicely of course this
66
00:06:39,980 –> 00:06:44,090
is why I’m using bakelite instead of
fiberglass because well it’s I can cut
67
00:06:44,090 –> 00:06:47,330
it with scissors I don’t have to get out
the dremel and all the safety equipment
68
00:06:47,330 –> 00:06:51,650
so you know just to make a simple trail
I’m also gonna need to cut out a notch
69
00:06:51,650 –> 00:06:56,690
here to fit this big beefy power button
that I’m gonna install separately now
70
00:06:56,690 –> 00:07:00,490
let’s start working on this screen
assembly
71
00:07:03,590 –> 00:07:09,020
so the PI TFT hat actually comes with a
separate GPIO breakout right here below
72
00:07:09,020 –> 00:07:13,940
the 40 thin connector so that you can
easily attach control wires the cell I’m
73
00:07:13,940 –> 00:07:17,389
going to connect the buttons and I’m
just gonna use a two fruits default
74
00:07:17,389 –> 00:07:25,610
layout for their retro game script to
wire everything for now okay just a
75
00:07:25,610 –> 00:07:29,960
quick orientation check let’s get these
wires soldered to their Horace ponding
76
00:07:29,960 –> 00:07:36,839
buttons
77
00:07:39,690 –> 00:07:47,670
okay now moment of truth it’s time to
solder the pie to the screen module with
78
00:07:47,670 –> 00:07:51,470
all the wires sandwiched in between
79
00:07:57,530 –> 00:08:02,370
now the screen module and the PI are
married I need to ground all these
80
00:08:02,370 –> 00:08:07,560
buttons to a common line so I’ll just
run some ground lines create a couple of
81
00:08:07,560 –> 00:08:13,590
buses and connect all of that to one of
the ground pants on the GPIO now I need
82
00:08:13,590 –> 00:08:18,480
a couple of shoulder buttons and so I’m
going to use these little candy colored
83
00:08:18,480 –> 00:08:24,330
text witches because they’re going to
fit right into the top of these little
84
00:08:24,330 –> 00:08:29,820
shoulders here on the bottom of the case
appropriately enough so I’m going to
85
00:08:29,820 –> 00:08:34,830
need to measure the button cap okay
looks be about 11 millimeters give or
86
00:08:34,830 –> 00:08:45,999
take so now my stepper bit and you get
to chewing through this plastic
87
00:08:56,220 –> 00:09:07,259
looking good so now we need some onboard
audio okay let’s take our USB audio
88
00:09:07,259 –> 00:09:12,120
adapter and and tear off these three and
a half millimeter Jaxx’s we’re not going
89
00:09:12,120 –> 00:09:18,360
to need them instead we’ll just solder
the leads to our speaker directly to the
90
00:09:18,360 –> 00:09:22,920
pads where the headphone jack was it
doesn’t really matter which channel we
91
00:09:22,920 –> 00:09:27,209
use because we’re only going to output
mono sound all these old games did just
92
00:09:27,209 –> 00:09:31,019
fine with mono sound anyway I mean it’s
not like a lot of TVs back in the day
93
00:09:31,019 –> 00:09:36,629
had stereo capabilities anyway
kind of reminds me of the Etta reminds
94
00:09:36,629 –> 00:09:41,730
me of the old game boys you know
dot-matrix with stereo sound but only
95
00:09:41,730 –> 00:09:55,079
one speaker whatever now we should at
least make sure it works now comes the
96
00:09:55,079 –> 00:09:57,660
fun
97
00:09:57,660 –> 00:10:06,810
I need to desolder these wires leading
to the USB plug because well this just
98
00:10:06,810 –> 00:10:11,280
isn’t gonna work
oh yeah and you might want to take note
99
00:10:11,280 –> 00:10:16,590
of where each wire is connected to
logistics anyway with the USB
100
00:10:16,590 –> 00:10:22,530
disconnected I’ll just cut a micro USB
cable that I have lying around and leave
101
00:10:22,530 –> 00:10:28,140
a micro plug and just a few inches worth
of cable strip it down and solder the
102
00:10:28,140 –> 00:10:33,390
individual wires onto the appropriate
pads add a little dab of hot glue to
103
00:10:33,390 –> 00:10:39,840
reinforce the connections and then we’ve
got as a micro USB audio adapter that
104
00:10:39,840 –> 00:10:49,860
should fit just like so now the last
component I have to build before we put
105
00:10:49,860 –> 00:10:53,280
this whole thing together is the power
supply now I’m going to use a two
106
00:10:53,280 –> 00:10:57,810
thousand milliamp power lipo battery to
power the thing with but I’m gonna need
107
00:10:57,810 –> 00:11:02,910
a way to charge it and to distribute
that power so for that I’m gonna use
108
00:11:02,910 –> 00:11:09,720
this a power boost 1000 from Adafruit
it’s actually pretty simple to wire the
109
00:11:09,720 –> 00:11:16,230
battery plugs into this little jack
right here and we just have to run a
110
00:11:16,230 –> 00:11:22,320
couple of wires from these terminals one
goes to a 5 volt pin and the other goes
111
00:11:22,320 –> 00:11:26,490
to the ground pin on the PI I’m also
gonna wire this little clicky button
112
00:11:26,490 –> 00:11:32,820
switch that I have that I’ll use to talk
with power now let’s get these things
113
00:11:32,820 –> 00:11:37,310
soldered up and that’ll be time to put
this bad boy together
114
00:11:39,279 –> 00:11:45,379
so I’ve run into a little bit of a snag
on assembling the speaker that I’m using
115
00:11:45,379 –> 00:11:50,029
is just too big to fit inside the shell
so I’m gonna have to find a smaller
116
00:11:50,029 –> 00:11:55,360
speaker driver to use now fortunately
the fine folks over at Ben Heck show
117
00:11:55,360 –> 00:12:00,500
happened to send me another speaker as
part of the build materials for Ben’s
118
00:12:00,500 –> 00:12:08,149
original bill okay let’s get this bad
boy put together we’re gonna start with
119
00:12:08,149 –> 00:12:14,449
the power boost unit wire that up to the
five volt in and the ground pin on the
120
00:12:14,449 –> 00:12:21,500
Raspberry Pi then we want a route ours
power switch into its appropriate
121
00:12:21,500 –> 00:12:29,209
position all right looking good now we
need to connect the shoulder buttons to
122
00:12:29,209 –> 00:12:34,189
the main controls we’re gonna start by
running ground lines from the ground bus
123
00:12:34,189 –> 00:12:38,029
on the controller out to the shoulder
buttons which I’ve attached to these
124
00:12:38,029 –> 00:12:42,889
small little pieces of perfboard that
I’ve glued into place then we’re going
125
00:12:42,889 –> 00:12:46,689
to connect our signal wires that we
soldered on to the screen module earlier
126
00:12:46,689 –> 00:12:52,100
all right everything’s fitting great now
we just need to add a little hot glue to
127
00:12:52,100 –> 00:12:57,769
hold everything in place and to insulate
our wires okay the last thing we have to
128
00:12:57,769 –> 00:13:02,110
do is Mount our USB audio so we got to
run the cable right around through here
129
00:13:02,110 –> 00:13:07,699
plug it in and cut a little piece of
mounting square we’re gonna tack the
130
00:13:07,699 –> 00:13:15,800
speaker right down on to the battery and
I think we’re actually finished let’s
131
00:13:15,800 –> 00:13:23,430
give it a shot
it works I’ve works it works okay one
132
00:13:23,430 –> 00:13:40,320
more thing I’ve got to do and always got
to sign our work perfect now I just got
133
00:13:40,320 –> 00:13:44,340
to get this back over to Raphael and
we’re good to go okay so the games
134
00:13:44,340 –> 00:13:47,940
intact but I’ve made a few modifications
that I think you’re gonna enjoy let’s
135
00:13:47,940 –> 00:13:57,830
check it out wow this is radical this is
way better than the game I used to play
Make your 3D printer into a wireless print server by adding a Raspberry Pi and capture timelapse videos with an on-board webcam. What do you want to see me print next?
How To Install OctoPi http://airbornesurfer.com/2017/06/setup-octopi-raspberry-pi-octoprint/
AFFILIATE LINKS:
LED Lighting http://amzn.to/2rBwaZs
The Simpsons http://amzn.to/2sIXSTX
The Lord of the Rings http://amzn.to/2tcMk8w
Jurassic Park http://amzn.to/2sJ5t4w
Running Scared http://amzn.to/2rq8Nhf
Outlet Saver http://amzn.to/2rqigVK
Right-Angle USB Cable http://amzn.to/2sDdIQl
USB Power Adapter http://amzn.to/2szR7TM
Webcam http://amzn.to/2sDaYCo
THINGIVERSE LINKS:
Cable Loop/Holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:934927
Raspberry Pi Mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1205961
Camera Mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2389663
Spool Holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:255229
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Tech teardowns, repairs, and reviews; sketches; how-to; games; and lots of other interesting geekery. At least one new video per month! Thanks for watching, and be sure to like, share, and subscribe!
TRASNCRIPT:
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hey folks Atari here I’ve been playing
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around with this Robo 3d printer for a
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while now
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and I think I’ve got the hang of it
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finally the thing about 3d printing is
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it’s very much a hacker minded hobby
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there’s a lot of trial and error
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involved in the process and most
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consumer grade printers do lack a lot of
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the out-of-the-box features got some of
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the higher-end printers include which
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leads people like me to go ahead and
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build their own upgrades what I’ve done
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here is I’ve installed a Raspberry Pi
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with the octoprint software to make a
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self-contained Wi-Fi printer and then I
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installed a webcam to capture time-lapse
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videos of the print process as well as
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some LED lighting for better video
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capturing and then I’ve you know kind of
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rejiggered the cabling and the filament
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feeds so that they’re going to move a
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little bit better and they don’t be
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caught up in may in the works inside it
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just makes for a whole lot better
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experience so this video is going to
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walk you through the process that I use
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to install these physical upgrades but I
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will have a link in the doobly-doo and
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probably up here in the corner a link to
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a full how-to article about about
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installing and setting up octoprint on
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the Raspberry Pi or octopi as its called
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I will put a link to that I’ll have a
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full write-up on airborne surfer comm so
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you can follow that guide there but
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again this is going to walk through the
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physical installation and with that with
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the write-up on the software that should
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get you through a pretty much down the
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gist of it the first thing I’m going to
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fix is the zip tie loop for the cable
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loom having a zip tie here has been
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holding the Loom a little too rigidly
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and has led to a few failed prints I’ve
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already cut the zip ties since removing
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the hood and now I need to replace the
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mounting point for the zip tire I found
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a suitable two piece cable loop on
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Thingiverse that holds the Loom in
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face while being loose enough to allow
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some play in the tension remove the two
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screws holding the loop mount in place
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then replace it with the base of the
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two-piece print hang on to the second
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piece for later next thing to do is
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install some lighting I picked up the
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self-adhesive USB powered LED strip from
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Amazon and ran it along the interior of
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the hood be sure to start with the USB
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plug on the slide with the cable well
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this is the same side that the loop
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mount is installed now before we put the
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hood back on go ahead and unplug the USB
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cable and the power cable from the
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printer place the hood back onto the
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base of the printer with the cable loop
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on the same side as the well make sure
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all the wiring is tucked inside the hood
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before pressing down to properly align
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the screw holes then screw the hood
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securely in place now gently lift the
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printer and set it on its side make sure
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to hold on to the print cartridge and
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abed as they’re likely to slide around
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to install the Raspberry Pi we’re going
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to need to siphon some electricity from
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the printers power supply specifically
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from the AC input coming from the switch
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on the back of the unit the power supply
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on a robo 3d printer is a tough zombie
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to remove
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there aren’t any screws or anything it’s
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just held in the friction very tightly
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as you can see taking quite a bit of
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effort to remove I found that shifting
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it down at an angle back and forth will
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garner the quickest results but your
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mileage may vary so here are the
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terminals these four go into the Arduino
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board that controls the printer and
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these three are for the AC what dish
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blue brown green and yellow OnLive just
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get get somebody killed
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you see standards exist for a reason
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well they exist for many reasons but one
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of them is safety international standard
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wiring colors are such so that one does
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not accidentally connect the wrong
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conduct to do the wrong terminal or
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worse touch the wrong live conductor
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this is wrong this is it’s good right
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I mean bed at least the goddamn
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terminals are clearly marked anyway
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we’re going to need to tap into these
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leads to direct power to a standard 110
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volt outlet so that we can use an
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off-the-shelf power converter to power
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the Raspberry Pi
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we’ll start by loosening the terminal
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screws and removing the leads I picked
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up this outlet saver at micro Center for
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a couple of dollars essentially it’s a
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10 inch long grounded extension cord
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take a pair of scissors and cut off the
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plug-in then strip away the outer casing
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leaving just the outlet end and the
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exposed inner wiring at least these
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wires are the proper colors so now we
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just need to strip the end of the
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insulation off of each of the wires so
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we can hook them up to the terminal now
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remember kids ground is green like grass
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on the ground white is neutral because
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it’s the neutral color and black is live
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because black lives matter anyway
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so we reinsert the leads from the switch
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into the proper terminal then insert the
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new leads from the extension cord into
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the appropriate terminals as well and
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tighten the retaining screw then simply
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reposition the power supply back inside
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its retainer with a good shove now we’re
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going to need to run a USB cable to
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connect the Arduino to the Raspberry Pi
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and because the Arduino is mounted so
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close to the edge of the base we’re
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going to use this right angle USB cable
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to make the connection now even with the
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low profile of the right angle cable
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though we’re going to need to
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move the Arduino to plug in the cable so
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just remove these three mounting screws
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from the Arduino and carefully plug in
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the USB cable you can use the existing
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wires to hold the new USB cable in place
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just be careful not to pull any of the
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wires from the Arduino screw the Arduino
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back into place and you’re done with
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step 2
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I found the simple mouth for a Raspberry
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Pi on Thingiverse but I also printed if
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you get the hole size right you can use
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screws to mount the pie in place but I’m
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just going to use glue as it’s a little
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easier than drilling out the hole apply
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the glue to the mount and press the
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Raspberry Pi board into place some glue
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should come through the holes in the pie
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and mushroom over to provide a pretty
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good hole clamp some parts together
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until the glue sets apply glue along the
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perimeter of the mouth and press it into
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place on the bottom of the printer make
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sure to hold it tightly against the base
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of the printer until they do the sex
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finally plug the printer into one of the
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USB ports on the pie plug one end of a
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USB to micro USB cable into the power
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port on the Raspberry Pi and the other
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end into a wall wart power converter I
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think this one up at Tashi station for
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about 5 imperial credits just make sure
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it’s rated for at least 5 volts and 1
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ampere plug your power converter into
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your hacked up power outlet from earlier
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and now your pie is powered on by the
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main switch on the printer again you can
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use the existing wiring to hold your new
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wiring in place I picked up a short USB
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extension cable to connect the lighting
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to the PI as well so I just need to
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connect that the last USB connection is
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made for the webcam which will record
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our time-lapse videos for this i’ll
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thread the USB cable from the front of
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the printer through the cable well to
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the underside of the printer and connect
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it to the Raspberry Pi
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before setting the printer up light go
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ahead and insert the cable loom in place
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inside the loop installed earlier and
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enclose it with the locking piece then
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carefully write the printer this is a
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widget that I designed myself and
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Tinkercad and I’ll put a link to it in
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the doobly-do what it does is it clamps
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onto the edge of the print bed and
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allows you to mount a clamp style webcam
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level with the print bed so you can
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capture time-lapse video that stabilize
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to the y-axis stabilizing one axis is
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nice because otherwise motion gets
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really messy and you can’t really see
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much detail in your printing lastly
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we’re going to turn the printer around
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to the back so I can install the new
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spool holder that I printed this is a
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replacement for the stock holder that
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hangs off the side of the hood this one
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keeps the footprint of the printer a
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little smaller and keeps the filament
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closer to the center axis of the printer
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which helps keep the feed steady
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preventing jams and tangles and it just
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grips onto the side of the hood and
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slides down to lock in place
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now if you’ll install these upgrades as
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soon as possible after setting up your
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logo through the printer you’ll find
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that you’re going to get a much better
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and much more consistent quality in your
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prints and you’ll have a lot fewer
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headaches along the way so anyway thanks
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for watching and if you like this video
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give it a thumbs up and click that
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little subscribe button and be sure to
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share it with your friends and in the
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meantime uh what would you like to see
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me 3d print leave an answer in the
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comments below until next time Tallyho
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y’all
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[Music]
Also on:
Having a 3D printer at your disposal is pretty amazing, but it can be a pain when you have to keep the printer tethered to your working computer for hours (or even days) while it runs! I was looking for a simple solution to drive my printer while I used my laptop for other purposes (like going to work during the week) when I came across OctoPrint, an open-source 3D printer web interface for controlling and monitoring the printer from a remote computer. The software essentially creates a running web server for the printer and takes the place of printing suites like MatterControl or Repetier, so it does require running on a machine connected to the printer via USB. If you have an old PC gathering dust, you can easily set it up and have a permanent print station. I, however, don’t have the luxury of a lot of space, so I wanted a more portable option that I could pull out when I needed to use it and easily put away. For this, I chose the Raspberry Pi as it is small enough to easily fit into the printer’s form factor, doesn’t require much electricity to run, and has built-in WiFi compatibility. The OctoPrint software even comes as a complete Linux distro optimized for Raspberry Pi called OctoPi.
Out of the box, OctoPi incorporates the LAMP stack for web hosting, a complete OctoPrint installation (including dependencies) for controlling the 3D printer, the mjpg-streamer package for streaming timelapse videos of the print process, and CuraEngine for slicing. This last item, however, is really moot because of the anemic computing power of the Raspberry Pi. I prefer to slice models on my working computer then transfer over the network to OctoPi for printing.
OctoPi is a pretty simple setup with a lot of really good documentation both at the OctoPrint.org site and their GitHub page. To start, make sure you have Etcher installed and simply download the latest stable version from http://octopi.octoprint.org/download (Be sure to grab the md5 file to verify the download as well!). Unzip the downloaded image and burn it to your SD card using Etcher like you would any other RPi image.
Open the newly burnt SD card as a removable drive in your computer’s file explorer. In the root folder of the SD card, use a text editor to open octopi-network.txt and edit the file as necessary to match your network configuration. Don’t forget to delete the # at the beginning of the appropriate lines or OctoPi will not connect to the network!
Eject the SD card from your computer, pop it into the Raspberry Pi, run a USB cable from the Pi to the printer, and turn on the Pi by plugging it into a power supply. Give the Pi a minute to boot up, and SSH into it from your main computer. The Pi will be located on the network as octopi.local (or an IP address assigned by the router). As usual, the default username is pi and the default password is raspberry.
Change the password using the passwd command, then close your SSH session.
Open a browser on your main computer and point it to octopi.local (or the assigned IP address). The OctoPrint interface will open with the “First-Run Wizard” and prompt you to set up access controls such as username and password. This is specific to OctoPrint and independent of the username and password used to access the Pi via SSH. If you don’t plan on having your printer exposed to the Internet or having anyone else connecting to your network, you may disable access control. I keep it active just in case, so disable at your own risk!
Reboot OctoPi through the menu at the top right of the screen, and you will be all set to print! If you need more help, check out the README section of the GitHub page or drop a comment below!
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